Hardly Strictly Bluegrass 2018

Time flies. It was hard to believe that it was the weekend of the 2018 Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival. The weather usually cooperates. There have been some years that it was a bit overcast, but usually there’s some kind of HSB magic or karma going on with the weather. This weekend was exceptional. Warm. Clear. Little wind. Almost perfect. The seasons don’t change like back east here, but Golden Gate Park does have its own autumn color.

Friday. October 5.  

Got a ride with Jack Stuber, Tree and Cornbread Willie. The dog, not the band. The band plays venues around the Bay Area. You can check them both out at: https://www.cornbreadwillie.com/  

Friday is the best day. Much more laid back. Not as crowded. We arrived in plenty of time for the first act. The David Bromberg Quintet is at The Banjo Stage.

  First song of the weekend: “The Hold Up.” Stand and deliver! Then a Blues song, “The First Time She Quit Me.” “Here’s a dance song I wrote when Jimmy Carter was president.” “Peanut Man.” An ominous “Dark Hollow.” “I’m going, but I’m not coming back.” 

Bromberg and the band do an acappella Gospel song. “Now that you’re totally confused...” They return to their instruments and play a long song about Riding.   

Bromberg makes an impassioned speech about how the country has changed. “It’s hard to recognize my country.” He’s preaching to the choir here. Bromberg says, “This is a dangerous time.” Get out and vote. 

The Friday Banjo Stage lineup was strong. It could have been the place to hang at all day if you have the patience. Next up were the HSB stalwarts, Dry Branch Fire Squad. “This is the strictly Bluegrass part of the weekend.” I love the band and Ron Thomason’s humor, but maybe I’ve seen them at HSB too many times. Maybe I’ve heard the stories too many times. Thomason is still amusing, and it’s only once a year. “I’m not talking too fast for you, am I?” They’re certainly the real Bluegrass deal. “My Mountain Girl.” “Barbara Ann.”

We wander. Friday is a good day to get the lay of the land at HSB, before the huge crowds of the weekend. Catch a little of The Mastersons at The Bandwagon Stage. This stage has an opened up camper trailer design. There is a large tent nearby that serves as a Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival museum. It shows signed posters from all eighteen festivals and many photos. Some archival footage is shown on TV screens.   

We return to The Banjo Stage for Dave Alvin and Jimmie Dale Gilmore with the Guilty Ones. They open up with the song about hanging out at The Ashgrove: “Downey to Lubbock.” A song by Steve Young (Not the quarterback.) “Silverlake.” 

“Fourth of July.” 

“Here’s a song I wrote for my brother to sing,” “Billy the Kid and Geronimo.” A rocking “Lawdy Miss Clawdy” gets the last laggards in the crowd up on their feet. It’s time for the first Hippie nostalgia of the weekend: “Let’s Get Together.” It’s Dino Valenti’s Summer of Love anthem. “Everybody get together, learn to love one another, right now.”  Golden Gate Park is where much of it happened. Seemed fitting to hear this song here. “Marie Marie.” “Dave Alvin always kicks ass. ”Friday is a shorter schedule. Things wrap up earlier. 

The only event at The Towers of Gold Stage today will be a taping of the NPR  radio show “Live From Here.” This will be a different kind of an event for HSB. The radio show is the shattered remains of Garrison Keillor’s Prairie Home Companion. The new host of the rebranded show is Chris Thile. Thile is an excellent mandolin player. I don’t know if that’s why they chose him to host the show.  

The band plays a song and then there are radio announcements and commercials. Some of the commercials are even real. Members of Hurray for the Riff Raff did a song with Susan Watkins from I’m With Her. (The band had this name before Hilary’s campaign.) We get to see several different bands and the show’s regulars present a skit. It was funny to see them reading from hand held scripts. 

It’s a Bluegrass variety show. There is comedy! Erin Foley is “a Lesbian standup comic.” Gaby Moreno sings La Malaguena. There’s a great cover of the James Brown classic: “It’s a Man’s World.”  

They did an amusing schtick about “Songs of the Eighties.” A K-Tel style announcer tried to sell us on a great offering of “Songs of the Eighties!” done in Bluegrass style. I didn’t expect to hear a version of Devo’s “Whip It” today. There are fractured covers of “Tainted Love” and Blondie’s “One Way or Another.”  

Lindsey Buckingham is the big guest. “We’re so lucky to have him!” The guy who ruined Fleetwood Mac. He did a song about the sunset that matched the quiet mood as the sun started setting.  

A couple of Fleetwood Mac songs. “Never Going Back Again.” They sold a lot of records, but we lost a great British Blues band. His set did have its moments. A big end to the day for Fleetwood Mac fans.   

Saturday. 10/6.

In recent years the mantra has been go early and leave early. I’ll be with a couple of musicians today. Jack Stuber and David Rice from Cornbread Willie. The band, not the dog. That link again: https://www.cornbreadwillie.com/ 

We’re back where we left off last night at The Towers of Gold stage for Glorietta. They’re “a collaboration” that got together after “a lengthy tequila powered jam.” “Loser’s Lament.” “Golden Lonesome” “Hard Way.” “Easy Come Easy Go.”  

I wander to the front and it’s still early so I get pretty close to the stage. “Heat Wave.” “Sinking Ship.” “Singing for Free. Hope it’s not me.”  

Hurray for the Riff Raff was at the neighboring Swan Stage. We had seen them play a bit during the radio broadcast yesterday, so we stayed put for I’m With Her. We’re told again that they had the name before the Hilary campaign. Sarah Watkins, Sarah Jarosz. “See You Around.”

We strolled to The Front Porch Stage. Still early, so the crowds are not that bad. Yet. On the way I got a news text: Kavanaugh was approved for the Supreme Court. God help us! Caught a little of Steve Forbert. Listened to a couple of hard Blues songs. 

It’s a short walk back to the Banjo Stage for Rodney Crowell. We arrive during “Earthbound.” Then there’s a great version of the old Blues song: “Come Back Baby.”

I’m leaning more on setlist.fm for song titles I don’t know: East Houston Blues. Reckless. It Ain’t Over Yet. Forgive Me Annabelle. Dancin’ Circles Round the Sun. (Epictetus Speaks) I Wish It Would Rain. (Not the Temptations song.) Wandering Boy. Leaving Louisiana in the Broad Daylight. 

Sounds like a lot of stage hopping, but it was done at leisurely pace. I’d still rather walk around. It’s early enough that we’re still able to move around, and there are ways to avoid the crowds. I’m not one of the tarp people. Would rather be one of the boat people, even if it means standing in the back.   

Took a look at Don Was and Friends at The Swan Stage. Don Was could attract big guest stars. The stage was way in the distance. The amazing thing about the huge crowd here is that it’s still early. In past years spots like Lindley Meadows would get filled eventually, but it looks full already. The Saturday night crowd keeps pouring in. We took a break near the concession stands. Stuber and David Rice will continue going west to the car. I’ll go back to The Banjo Stage for the Flatlanders.  

If anyone is the voice of HSB, it’s Jimmy Dale Gilmore. He plays at HSB with The Wronglers, Dave Alvin and The Flatlanders. He pops in for cameo appearances at other stages. His familiar twang is heard all over HSB every year. 

They start with “Had My Hopes Up High.” 

Don’t need as much help from setlist.fm on this one, but here it is: Wind’s Dominion (Butch Hancock song) Borderless Love. Julia. Rose From the Mountains. They start a soft version of Dallas. “Have you ever seen Dallas by a DC 109 at Night.” “That’s the way we did it yesterday.” A more rocking version follows. Cold Black Hammer (Joe Ely song) Right Where I Belong. Midnight Train. Sitting on Top of the World. Encore: If You Were a Bluebird. Sowing on the Mountain.

I couldn’t help but notice a guy sitting in a lawn chair, casually taking hits from a small vial. He had a nice little setup. Just doing a little coke at HSB. A rare sight nowadays. 

There’s no more Star Stage. The bands that were scheduled at The Star usually  attracted the Deadhead crowd. Moonalice, Malo, Steve Kimock, Hot Tuna. It drew the Hippie crowd, both old and young. The dream could be relived for a short time, but the crowd at The Star Stage did have an edge. It may have been the rowdiest stage, especially on Saturday night. (With apologies to Robert Earl Keen.) It was in a spot that created pedestrian logjams. Maybe it’s better that there’s no big stage in this corner of HSB. Traffic certainly flows better in this area now. It’s a rare example of HSB getting a little smaller.  

The Blue Angels passed overhead once in a while. It’s still a thrill to see them even from a distance. Our militaristic tax dollar at work. It seemed like they stayed away from the Golden Gate Park area. There weren’t as many strafing runs that drowned out the music.   

The shadows are getting long. People are still coming in. It really is an annual biblical Woodstock. The crush of the crowds was really getting to me. This was Saturday night. Prime time. I hated to miss a chance to see Los Lobos, but I didn’t want to go all the way back to The Towers of Gold. It was time to head home. I exited via The Rooster Stage. There was an equipment changeover going on and I hit it.

Sunday. 10/7. 

I saw the Bluegrass version of Tommy a couple of years ago. Doing a Bluegrass version of the Who’s Rock Opera was a stroke of genius. It was my personal project to get here by 11 am to see it again. “Prairie Prince Presents Tommy” was more rocking this year. It was Baby Boomer nostalgia with a twist. 

The early birds are still a bit groggy when we’re greeted with, “Good morning campers!” They can’t play the whole two record opera. “There are cuts.” Everybody knows the words. The opening medley. “Amazing Journey.” The sinister “Cousin Kevin.” “The Acid Queen.” Great versions of “Pinball Wizard” “Tommy Can You Hear Me?” and a standout “I’m Free.” 

I hadn’t heard some of these songs in a while. I have been neglecting The Who. This certainly brought back memories of seeing them live. It really seems like a long time ago now.

Prairie Prince was his usual driving, pounding self behind the drums. It was a chance for him to channel his inner Keith Moon. What drummer doesn’t want to be Keith Moon, at least for a song? Prairie Prince is the guy that still fuels The Tubes.

Chuck Prophet on guitar. The bass player, Chris von Sneidern, did an amazing job at doing most of the singing.  

The crowd is dancing and singing. It’s a real Sixties love fest. The finale, “See Me, Feel Me” is a nostalgic ritual. Some kind of catharsis was going on. Face it, the Sixties will never end! There were calls for more, but HSB runs on a tight schedule.    

It’s really a matter of chance who I see now, but I do consult the schedule. I’m in a Porch Stage mood. The Porch Stage is the smallest stage and usually has the “up and coming” acts. There may be “bigger” acts on other stages, but the lineup here could support its own festival.

Traffic is herded along JFK Drive. Cyclone fences direct people and golf carts to the west. This is the eastern entrance to HSB. I sit on the small hill and watch a constant stream of people arriving. 

The next act is Aki Kumar. An Indian Blues Harmonica player? I’d see if he was for real. I waited in the back. A group of five Sikhs sat near me. They wore white robes and turbans. One guy had a Cleveland Indians baseball hat on over his turban. It had the controversial Chief Wahoo logo. Would anyone in politically correct San Francisco have the nerve to tell him that indigenous could be offended? And, it was Columbus Day weekend!     

Kumar says America is the greatest, but he still misses India. A band mate suggested he just buy an airline ticket and go there. Kumar goes to a travel agent who immediately says, “You look like a Blues harmonica player.” This means that he knows Kumar can’t afford an air ticket to India. “Back to Bombay.” Kumar dedicates “Orange Buffoon” to our current president. 

I had a hunch and yes, Aki Kumar and his band was for real. Solid Blues sound. The last couple of songs feature a great wailing Blues sitar!

12:30. 

Back to the The Banjo Stage for Peter Rowan. Rowan brought Bluegrass into the Deadhead mainstream with Jerry Garcia in Old and In the Way. He played with Bill Munroe! 

“Riding That Midnight Train” was in progress. “Alabama Bound.” 

Rowan says that there is a “Bluegrass hierarchy.” You had to know someone to get a proper introduction to an icon like Carter Stanley. Monroe introduced Rowan and the result was: “Carter Stanley’s Eyes.”

“Drumbeats on the Watchtower.” “Panama Red” Whatever happened to this strain? Many in the crowd celebrate their memories. Many sang “Midnight Moonlight.” There’s a long Sixties jam. “Let Me Love You One More Time.” A great version of “Dharma Blues.” Another song that just fits in Golden Gate Park.   

The stage hopping sounds a bit crazy, but I do go at my own pace. Sometimes HSB just takes over. I’m drawn to The Rooster Stage by Heavy Metal sounds. Whoever it is, I’m going to at least check them out. It sounds like Deep Purple is playing over there. Aaron Lee Tasian might be the biggest surprise discovery this weekend. Bluegrass is great, but after a while I find myself craving some grinding metal. It is Hardly Strictly. There’s no Buckethead or Cheap Trick scheduled this year. From the HSB bios: Aaron Lee Tasian played in “a late period incarnation of the New York Dolls.” 

“Episode of Tears.” “The Dangerous Kind.” 

After a couple of songs the pace slows a bit. It’s not as Heavy Metal. I want to see some of Moonalice. It’s been a while since I’ve seen these keepers of the flame.  

Lindley Meadows is packed. They’re doing a long psychedelic jam as I approach. Then a long version of “The Times They Are A Changing.” A song that always seems to be relevant. I haven’t heard as many Dylan songs at HSB in recent years. Some years it seemed almost everyone covered a Dylan song during their set. 

It made me wonder again. Why hasn’t Dylan appeared at HSB? HSB has handled huge crowds in the past. Willie Nelson. Dolly Parton. Was he ever asked? It just surprises me that he’s never played here, especially in the early years.  

The beat of “Not Fade Away” starts. Long jam. The crowd loves it and gives them a big ovation. The MC announces that, “The spirit of psychedelic music is alive in Golden Gate Park.” 

Tim O’Brien at The Banjo Stage. “Cold Windy Mountain.” “I’ve Got to Move.” “Where the River Meets the Road.” Real old time Bluegrass. A Dylan song: the mournful Senor (Tales of Yankee Power.) “Three Thin Dimes.” 

“High Flying Bird.” Another gem that goes back to the folk music days. 

A song about an auctioneer! “Down That Lonesome Road.”   

2:45. Over to The Rooster Stage. Can’t resist a curious look: “Nick Lowe’s Quality Rock and Roll Revue with Los Straitjackets.” It’s hard to see them at the back of Marx Meadow. Los Straitjackets are two guys in Mexican style wrestling masks! Sinister and comic. Fifties Greaser Rock and Roll. Great stuff, but my big priority today was Booker T. Jones Stax Revue.

Booker T and the MGs were the headliners at the first “big show” I ever went to. It was a free show in Chicago’s Grant Park. Albert King opened. It was before the infamous Sly and the Family Stone riot. I was coming full circle again. 

“Hang ‘Em High” is the classic by Dominic Frontiere from the classic Western.  “Gee Whiz.” “Born Under A Bad Sign.” “Knock On Wood.” There’s a big band with him. Stax horns. The whole R&B deal.  

Soul medley: “Hold On, I’m Coming” “Hip Monkey” “Midnight Hour” “Mr. Big Stuff” “Soul Man” “Time Is Tight.” The Stax Revue has everything for the Rhythm and Blues fanatic. Finishes with Mavis Staples singing “Respect Yourself.”   

I couldn’t stick it out to see Roky Erickson. It had been quite a weekend. Roky is one of the more obscure shattered cases of the Sixties. He was in the Thirteenth Floor Elevators, one of the bands present at the creation of psychedelia. It’s not the same, but I did watch it online. The Heavy Metal sound was a bit of a surprise. He sat and growled lyrics about Satan, demons, vampires, alligators and Sputnik. A young guy played most of the guitar. Recognized an old 13th Floor Elevator’s song: “Levitation.”

Another Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival. It is an amazing event.    

 

 

   

Europe 2018 Delphi

Tomorrow would be another big tour: Delphi! I wanted to go somewhere close to the hotel. Saw a sign: Roof Garden. It was the place I could see from my room. There was a large screen that showed silent movies. I ordered a glass of wine. The waiter brought it out with a plate of tapas. Olives, bread, cheese. I had just had the lamb, but what the heck. When in Athens... I watched a couple of Charlie Chaplin shorts. In one he was in the trenches of World War I.   

The last tour. One I was really anticipating. The Delphi Full Day Tour. The sky was overcast with threatening clouds. There was a bit of a drizzle while waiting for the bus. The morning traffic was a bit tough and it took the bus a while to get out of the Athens area. It was an interesting look at Greece outside the tourist zone. 

Our guide was Mariana.  A real sweetheart. We would be on the bus for about two and a half hours, with a short break in Livadeia. She gave us a great running commentary on the places we were passing while in the bus, and many fun facts on the geography and history of Greece. We would not be taking the exact route that pilgrims used, but it would be close. She talked about the agriculture of the province of Boeotia as we passed through. She pointed out the road to Thebes where Oedipus had run into his father.  

We got our first look at Mount Parnassus. The top was shrouded in the clouds. We made a pit stop at a modern domed facility that looked designed for tourist rest stops. Levadeia. I had a great Baklava. The clouds still looked threatening. “Of course we can’t guarantee weather conditions at the archaeological site.”

We were headed up into the mountains. The scenery was getting more dramatic.  There was a view of Corinthian Bay and the Ionian Sea in the distance.

Passed through the mountain town of Arachova. It’s a resort town for nearby winter sports on Mount Parnassus. It’s famous for its carpets and wool. 

In Arachova we got into a medieval traffic jam. The streets are small. We were behind what Mariana said was probably a funeral procession. Someone “going to their last residence on earth.” It was a similar situation to the tight spots on Ireland’s roads. Our bus faced another tour bus. There was no confrontation. No yelling, swearing. Each driver backed up so each bus could squeeze past on the narrow street. It did take some cooperation and time. When we started rolling again our driver Socrates got a round of applause.  

Delphi was “the center of the ancient world.” It was the home of the fabled Oracle of Delphi. A mountain pass made it a crucial spot for trade, but it took on even more importance as a spiritual center. This was a sacred place even before the Greeks.

We kept winding up the mountains surrounded by spectacular green scenery. Mariana said that not only the area is protected, the view is protected. There are no power lines or industrial development. Bauxite for aluminum is mined here. It is done totally underground.

We left the bus and entered the site. A stone path went up the hill. Mariana pointed out the ravine formed by “The Phaedriades.” This gap had made the area the center of a crucial trade route. It’s easy to see why the Oracle was here.     

Marinana explained that the pilgrimage was a big investment for the people of ancient times. There was lost time and income. Many had to borrow money to make the trek. Here at the Agora pilgrims could buy “what we would call souvenirs” to thank their sponsors. There were also souvenirs to prove that you had completed the pilgrimage. The walls dividing the shop stalls are still visible. 

Delphi was the center of the universe. It was the “Omphalos,” the navel of the earth. The business model is pretty much the same. The Acropolis, Delphi and other sites draw people from around the world. Now they’re called tourists, but they have to be fed and lodged. An industry grows around it. The tourist dollar rules now. It’s easier to travel, but it’s still a bit of a pilgrimage to get to a place that is as revered as Delphi.   

 

We came to The Polygonal Wall. Mariana said it was one of the first structures excavated at Delphi. It was covered with inscriptions. Hundreds of them. We passed several more “Treasuries.” The Treasury of the Athenians. The Treasury of the Boeotians. The Treasury of the Thebans. Treasure and gifts poured into Delphi from all Greece. The gods had to be thanked or appeased. Some of the Treasuries look pretty good considering how ancient they are. Their facade and columns are still intact. 

Mariana pointed out a rock that was covered in brush and dried roots. It looked unusual, like a large overturned tree stump. I would have noticed it, but would have walked right past it without knowing what it was. It was the Sibyl rock. Legend says this is where the original Oracle answered questions. It’s great to have a tour guide. 

Mariana says that the scientists and archaeologists don’t have all the answers. The room where the Oracle sat has not been found. Excavations continue.

We come to the columns of the Athenian stoa. Plunder from the Persians was offered  to the gods here to thank them for the victory. 

We went up the Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo. This was the goal of pilgrims for centuries. It was hard to imagine what it must have been like for the fervent pilgrims reaching the end of their journeys. Delphi definitely has an aura of its own. The ruins seem to take on a life of their own.

Mariana talked about the Oracle. She was always selected from the “normal” part of the local population. She wasn’t a priestess. The answers she gave were usually vague. Then it was up to the priests of the temple to interpret what they really meant.  

We had some free time to wander. I went a little farther up the hill. I would have spent more time here, but I did want to make sure I got a look at The Delphi Archaeological Museum. The small museum displays objects of great archaeological importance. Like the Acropolis artifacts have been moved into the museum for their protection and safe keeping. 

Original friezes have been moved indoors. Each room has at least one large, stunning statue. The Kouroi of Delphi. Statue of a Bull. The Sphinx of the Naxians. The facades of the Temple of Apollo. The ancient statues of humans are amazingly lifelike. The last room displays The Bronze Charioteer, on of the most famous and best preserved statues of antiquity.   

Even Delphi fell out of favor. Greece is plagued by earthquakes. Over the centuries Delphi was shaken by them. Other trade routes had been found. Religion changed. It had a rebirth under the Romans. It’s hard to believe, but Delphi was forgotten and buried. There were a few visitors who knew it was the site of the Oracle, including Lord Byron. Some drawings were made of buildings at the site.   

Delphi was “rediscovered” in the early Nineteenth Century. Over the years a village had grown on top of the buried ruins. The village was “relocated” after an earthquake. Excavation started in the 1890s.

Delphi isn’t just another pile of ruins up in the mountains. It’s a part of the spectacular surroundings. Delphi is not only a sacred spot, but the whole area is holy ground. 

We meet the bus outside the museum. We could see other ruins from the bus, including the Tholos. Mariana says that the wind creates waves in the many olive trees on the hillside. The trees have two colors. They are darker on the bottom and lighter on the top half. It’s usually windy and the wind and tree colors create wave effects. It’s part of the view from here. Mariana has the heart of a poet.  

We have lunch at Symposium. Everyone is blown away by Delphi and are very glad they took the tour. Lunch was another great fried chicken. We compared travel notes. “Where are you headed next?” On the way out I see a photo of a much younger Hilary Clinton posing with the owners.  

We stop at Arachova on the way back. We had thirty minutes of “free time.” A shop owner, John, greets everyone getting off the bus. Arachova is famous for rugs and carpets. It’s also famous for the view and the bell tower. 

I heard the shop owner John: “We’ll split the difference!”  

I was walking back to the bus. A large rainbow arced over the mountains and the road back to Athens. One of the largest I’ve ever seen. Really spectacular. Mariana said that, “We didn’t get the rain, but we still got the rainbow!”    

It was a long bus ride home. My epic trip was drawing to a close. I would fly the next day. Back to reality. It seemed like a long time ago that I had left San Francisco. Or Dublin. I had seen a lot. 

I was getting impatient. Wanted to get off the bus. My hotel would be at the last stop. I thought about getting off at Monastiraki, but I stayed on. I would get a look at a part of Athens that I hadn’t seen. We passed through some neighborhoods that looked pretty shaky. 

In one neighborhood there were fruit and vegetable stands set up in front of stores. It was getting dark. Maybe that added to the paranoia. I saw signs for Pakistani businesses. Maybe it wasn’t as dangerous as it looked, but I wondered what would happen if I went strolling through this part of town with my Rick Steves bag in tow. There were stone buildings that looked abandoned with boarded up windows. Some of them had impressive facades,. They had seen better days. Maybe it wasn’t as bad as it looked. There was always the graffiti.  

We were near Syntagma Square and The Parliament Building. The bus stopped. We would not be able to go any further because there was a demonstration. At least I knew where I was. I headed towards the hotel and turned a corner. I had walked right into some riot police. They had their game faces on. They were putting on helmets and adjusting equipment. Most of them had large riot shields and batons. These guys looked serious.  

I went another block and looked down Mitropoleos Street. My hotel was close. There were about a thousand demonstrators marching up the street. Right between me and my hotel. Might as well just watch the demonstration. There was definitely some hostility in the air. They were chanting and some demonstrators carried iron rods that they pounded on things as they marched up the street. They weren’t smashing everything in sight, but the menacing sound created tension. I pulled out my iPhone and started shooting video. I couldn’t see, but it sounded like they were attacking an ATM. There was a crash and then some cheers.

A young guy standing behind me yelled, “You can’t film this!” I put the iPhone down. “It’s for your protection, man. You can’t film this!” I felt foolish and I certainly wasn’t going to argue with him. I realized he was doing me a big favor and thanked him. Efharistoh! 

I was quickly losing my curiosity. It was a good time to go around the block and avoid most of the demonstration. Somehow I wound up on a street that was not Metropoleos. I wandered a bit and entered the now familiar Cathedral Plaza, which wasn’t far from the hotel. The demonstration was long gone. Syntagma Square is where most big demonstrations wind up. That’s where the action was.

Took a short break at the Pan Hotel. I wanted to get a last look at the Acropolis lit up at night. Wasn’t that hungry, but I did have some great fried calamarI. 

Tomorrow I would be flying back.

Europe 2018. Athens. Acropolis

My second ferry ride in Greece, so I knew the drill a little better. There was the spectacle of vehicles being loaded onboard. The setup inside the ship was a little different than the first ferry. I was riding economy. There were tables set out like a cafeteria. There were tables with a view. I got there early enough to set up next to a window. It was a little confusing. There would be stops in Paros and Syros, and then we would land in Piraeus, the last stop. Then “you can take a bus to Athens.” I didn’t like the uncertainty of that last leg.  

Three people settled in at the table next to me. A young woman and a slightly older couple. Probably in their late twenties. Two older women sat across from me. Another older guy with a fisherman’s cap joined. Except for the first three I don’t think the others knew each other. It looked like there was even a little hostility at first. It was getting harder to find an empty seat.  

As the voyage progressed they started talking. Something was very humorous and they started laughing. The woman across from me didn’t laugh much, but every once in a while she would make a short comment that put the rest of them in hysterics. A couple of them laughed so hard they were crying. This went on for most of the five hour ferry ride. I just wanted to know what one of the jokes was. Even if it was me.  

I was able to get up and walk around the ferry. Quite a scene. There was a covered area on deck with tables. People played cards or just hung out, enjoying the ride and the scenery. The ferry went along the coast. There were always great coastal views. Not a bad way to travel. 

The stops gave us a great view of the port towns of Paros and Syros. Small whitewashed towns on the water. I had to wonder about just getting off and checking them out. This looked like the real deal. Not as much tourism. Was tis the “real” Greece?   

I joined the flow of passengers getting off at Piraeus. I had to figure out where the bus station was. Everyone was standing in the hold waiting for the huge ramp to come down. It froze about half way down. This crazy alarm music played. It sounded like demented children’s music. Worse than “It’s a Small World After All” at Disneyland. There was definite tension as everyone waited. It was probably only about five minutes, but the alarm music didn’t help. The ramp finally came down and everyone rushed out. 

Taxi drivers were hustling the crowd as we got off. I showed one the address of my hotel. He thought it over and said, “55 Euro.” Tempting, but I would at least try the bus. If I had to, I could always find a cab for that price.  

I’m not much for following the herd, but I assumed most of this crowd was headed to Athens. I followed the crowd into a station. It was the train. I went to a counter and got a ticket. There were fare machines, but I wanted to buy a ticket from a human, ask questions and be sure. “Athens is the seventh stop.” It was less than two Euros.  

it was a crowded train car and I really had the radar on after the Barcelona incident. I had read repeated warnings that trains and busses drew pickpockets. A guy in the train car starting ranting and raving in Greek. (Hey, just like home!) Was he the distraction? He sure sounded mental. He barged his way through the crowded car. Smelled horrid. At least he got off at the next stop. Still ranting and raving about some injustice. 

The seventh stop was “Monastiraki” I knew the Pan Hotel was in this area. I got off the train and asked a hot redheaded police officer where Mitropoleos Street was. She pointed across the plaza. Now all I had to do was find No. 11. I had survived the Greek Metro and saved 55 Euros. 

Once again I had somehow managed to be on the streets during rush hour. It was Monday night. Some people were commuting and looked serious, but many were hanging out in the plaza. There was a small Byzantine church near the station. Waiters stood outside restaurants and tried to draw people in. One guy worked me. I shrugged and he saw I still had my bag. “Welcome to Athens!” 

The Pan Hotel was OK and would serve my purposes. I walked around Athens a little. The city was still buzzing. I walked back to the plaza and was excited to get my first look at the lit up Parthenon. I’ll be going up there. The Cathedral was on the same street as my hotel. 

My travel agent had said, “Athens can be dodgy.” There seemed to be more street scum around. There were the usual vendors selling the neon toy that shoots up into the sky. There were very friendly Jamaicans greeting people. “Where are you from?!” They didn’t appear to be selling anything. I wondered what their scam was, but didn’t really want to know.    

The next day was a walking tour that would end at The Acropolis. Victor took us to the Parliament Building where we watched the strange Changing of the Guard. We went through the National Gardens, which were a pleasant surprise. It was very similar to the Arboretum in Golden Gate Park. We walked by The Zappeion Hall. (“It has nothing to do with Frank Zappa.”) 

Victor admitted he had had a long night which had included Tango dancing. He was still very enthusiastic and told great stories about the mythology and history of Greece. There were only seven people on this tour.

We went on a street that bordered the gardens and passed the President’s Palace and other government mansions. It reminded me of Pacific Heights. Victor said that the President, “Has very little power.” We crossed a main street, the Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou and saw the Panathenaic Stadium. The stadium where the modern Olympics began in 1892! A thrill to see where it all started. It’s been modernized and they have concerts and other events. The Scorpions played there last week! 

Victor mentioned that apartments in the center of the city are cheaper than the ones on the outskirts. The opposite of what usually happens. He also said that apartments could be bought for ten to fifteen thousand Euro. We stopped him right there. The tour group was four Americans and two Canadians. We were all very curious about this: “Ten to fifteen thousand to own?” Right. “And then you own it?” Right, like a condo. “Are there restrictions on foreigners buying property?” No! 

We found this one hard to believe, but there are areas of Athens that look pretty shaky, and there is the volatile political situation. Still, ten to fifteen thousand to own an apartment anywhere sounded unreal to us.

We walked up the street to the Temple of Zeus. Victor found a break in the bushes and we stepped in behind a fence where there was a great view of the temple. Very little of it is left standing, but the remaining pillars are impressive. Victor pointed out one of the columns that had collapsed. The columns have an iron rod that runs down the middle and keeps the separate pieces together. This attracted lightning during a storm. Even the toppled pieces of the pillar are grand. This building must have been huge. I saw it later at night, and it is spectacular when lit up at night.   

Hadrian’s Arch is across the street. It looks like a fragile relic from the ancient world, but somehow it fits into the commute bustle of Athens. It’s near a turnaround hub of daily commute traffic.  

We crossed the main street (Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou ) again, and Victor took us through the Plaka, the oldest part of Athens. We saw some ruins that were about ten feet below street level. This was the original street level. There are still many ancient ruins all over Athens that are undiscovered.   

There was a small square with a monument. The Lysicrates square and monument. The monument was circular and classic. There had been a Capuchin monastery here. Lord Byron had stayed there. “He is a hero to the Greek people.” The monastery had become “a center for resistance” during the War for Independence. The Turks destroyed the monastery, but, “They didn’t destroy the monument.”  

We came out of the Plaka and started walking up a modern road, the Dionysiou Areopagitou. We kept drawing closer to the Acropolis. It doesn’t exactly sneak up on you. There was an entrance to the Acropolis with a very long line. We would keep walking and go to an entrance on the other side. Victor pointed out the very modern looking Acropolis Museum. We walked around the base of the hill. Victor said we were walking where Plato and Aristotle had walked and taught. 

He wanted us to se the Areopagus. We came to a bluff that was covered in rocky stone. “St. Paul preached to large crowds here.” There was a stairway to the top. On the top the wind was fierce. I took a short video and had a hard time standing. At one point another member of the tour group had to grab me so I could catch my balance! There was an awesome view of Athens from here. 

The walking tour ended at the queue to go into the Acropolis. This was a bit odd. I thought we would get a Skip the Line ticket with the tour. I knew there would be an extra charge, but that would have been OK with me. There was a wait to buy tickets. I always get a little hyper before seeing iconic World Heritage sites. At least the line was shorter on this side. 

It’s always a little surreal to go to the “Big” sites. The Eiffel Tower. St. Peter’s. The Alhambra. The Alcazar. I couldn’t believe the Grand Canyon when I first saw it. It’s hard to believe it’s there. Or that I’m there. This was it. This was a big one.

The area that led up to the Acropolis had ruins and some statues. I was surprised to see a modern stage inside the ancient Herodes Theatre. “Sting just played here!” There was a sound board set up about half way up the stone seats. The acoustics were unbelievable. An open microphone picked up the sounds the stagehands made when they walked around the stage.  

 

Stone steps led us up to the top of the hill, and we entered under large stone portals. The steps were packed with people going up and down. You had to be careful to navigate the ancient stone steps. When I got to the top the crowd thinned out as people spread out to wander around.   

At the top it was very windy. Swirls of dust blew around. Much of The Parthenon was covered in scaffolding. Renovation continues. I wandered around and saw the remains of the temples and buildings. Many buildings are familiar. The caryatids on the Erechtheion. It was hard to believe I was up here. Another unreal, amazing experience. I kept wandering around. Didn’t want to leave.

There was a great view of the Theatre of Dionysus below. It’s the theater “where it all began.” Where theater started. I get a closer look on my way out.  

The Acropolis is still an active archaeological site. There is a small gauge railroad system up there to lug dirt and antiquities around.

It was crowded, but I think I got a break because it was later in the season. I overheard someone say, “It’s usually worse.” Guards watched for people who got too enthusiastic and climbed on the ruins for photo opportunities. Once in a while you’d hear a whistle and an admonishment. I saw one guy retrieving his hat from a clearly marked restricted zone. He got his hat and a scolding from one of the guards. It has to be a weird job.

I started making my way down. There were still large artifacts and ruins all around. I heard music. It was coming from the Herodes Theatre. They were doing some kind of sound check. It was a Leonard Cohen song: “Dance Me to the End of Love.” The bittersweet song was perfect. An emotional, stirring moment. People stood at the top behind the fence and listened. I took a little video. They played some of “Hallelujah” before the sound crew went on to other tasks. It’s probably a good thing they didn’t play a Stones song. I think my head would have exploded.     

The Acropolis Museum is modern and displays many original works that can’t be left to the elements anymore. Just amazing. There was a great short film on the history of the Acropolis and another one on the controversial “Elgin Marbles.” When it was renovated a buried village was discovered. Presented a bit of a problem. The village is covered by glass that you can walk over. You can see the ruins below.  

Left the Acropolis and walked down small streets with stone steps that led down towards Monastiraki. There were old, small buildings that looked like private residences, but who knows in this age of B&Bs. At the lower levels the walls were completely covered in graffiti. Most of it was artfully done. It seemed to be a haven for radical art and anarchy. Graffiti was everywhere in Athens, and most of it was not so artistic. Athens did have some edge to it.

Found a restaurant with a view of the Lysicrates Monument and Square. There was something about it. It was early and there were only two other people in the place. I wanted lamb. Got lamb souvlaki. The waiters eyed me with a little suspicion. Have to admit I was looking a bit ragged by this point. Even for me. My hair was longer than it had been in years.  My pants were covered in smeared sunscreen and dust. So were my shoes. But it was dust from the Acropolis!   

The Cathedral of Athens was still open. It’s relatively new, but I was glad to get inside for a look. Next to it is the “Little Metropolis.” I had been drawn to the miniaturized cathedral last night when the big one was closed. There’s a nice plaza around it that is more laid back than the other nearby public squares.

Europe 2018 Short Version 2

Been going over photos and notes I took. I’ll be buzzing about this trip for a long time. Leaving out many fun facts and stories. I’m trying to make this the short version.  

Flew from Barcelona to Rome. Connected to Santorini. At the airport in Santorini I got the bad news. My luggage had been “delayed.” Great. Never happened to me before. The baggage guy said I had to go to “the office. Last window on the left.” They didn’t even have the airline’s name there. (Vueling, a Spanish airline.) Their attitude was unbelievable. There were about six people in the same boat. As I arrived an American woman was yelling. A guy immediately said, “I’m getting the police!” She didn’t look very threatening, but this guy wasn’t taking any chances. 

Maybe it was a language thing. Certainly a cultural thing. They acted like it was my fault. A young woman behind a glass enclosed counter asked me, “What do you want to do?” I kept my cool. Uh. Get my luggage? “You have to fill out a form!” OK. “Don’t worry. Your luggage has been delayed. It will be delivered to your hotel tomorrow.” That sounded good. 

Small airport. They have “ambassadors” there who wander in yellow vests and answer questions. A nice touch. I asked one, “How much for a taxi to this hotel?” “It depends on the driver.” I looked at the taxi stand. The drivers didn’t look too friendly. “Take the bus,” the ambassador said, “It’s two Euro.” After a short wait I rode the bus into Santorini. 

The area around the airport looked kind of Third World. Trash was piled up in abandoned construction sites. Eventually we went by the beaches and the beauty of Santorini started to show. I got off the bus and went up what I thought was the main street. I knew the Hotel Kykladonisia was going to be hard to find. On one of the tours someone had commented, “In Santorini, only the locals know where something is.” (I learned later that there are no addresses, no street numbers in Santorini!)   

I went into a store and showed a woman the address to the Kykladonisia “Traditional Settlement.” She made a call on her phone and handed it to me. I talked to Pablus. “Do you see the Thirassia Hotel?” It was right up the street. “I’ll meet you there.” This was almost too good to be true. Pablus told me, “I knew you’d never find it.” The Kykladonisia was up winding medieval stone steps. He was right. I don’t know how I would have found it. 

On the way up the famous Santorini donkeys went past us. I’m used to scrawny, starving looking mules. These were big, strong animals. There are areas in Santorini where they are the only form of transport. 

Not much to unpack. I went out in search of Gyros. Now I was on the main street. Learned that in Greece gyros is either chicken or pork. “Greeks don’t eat lamb gyros.” The owner of the restaurant worked the passing pedestrians. He knew how to greet most of them in their own language. It was a bit of a show. 

Surprised at how much tourist action there was. Went into the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral. Behind it the street winds up around the caldera. Awesome views of the water below. Cruise ships. Many restaurants. At the end of the street was an area of high riding jewelry boutiques.A lot of people were out on a Tuesday night. 

Next day I went on the “Sunset in Oia and Traditional Villages” tour. Our guide was Demetrius. First stop was Mesa Gonia, “the ghost village.” An earthquake in 1956 destroyed most of the village. It struck early in the morning and most of the people were already working in the fields. (A bad day to call in sick.) Most of the buildings are ruins. Kind of weird. There has been some rebuilding. Demetrius told us the new homes are among the most expensive in Greece now! 

Pyrgos. Village that winds up a hill. Famous photo ops of blue domed churches looking over the bay. The Venetian Castle there was a refuge from pirates, including Barbarossa!  

Tour ended in Oia. We went up to the main plaza, and then would have free time to wander. “Bus leaves at 8:00!” 

Most people headed to an area up on the hill. Famous for blue dome churches and photo op of sunset. I took a look. Amazing how many people were going that way. I headed down the streets and away from the crush. I found a spot near the beach with a great view of the famous sunset.    

The Kykladonisia was pretty basic, but it did have its own charm. A]Ther was a little area with a view of the water. The problem was the luggage fiasco. They had not delivered the bag because I wasn’t there. WTF? For whatever reason they wouldn’t bring it down the stone stairs to the hotel. 

I called “Gold Air Handling.” It was obviously a call center. Probably in India. “There was a miscommunication.” The bag might be delivered tomorrow, but the guy was sure to say, “There is no guarantee.”

So, I’m supposed to sit in the hotel all day and MAYBE the bag will show up. Probably would have just hung out, but I had the “See Santorini in one day with King Thira” tour the next day. The show must go on!

I bought shirts and a hat. The travel insurance is supposed to cover some incidentals “after twenty four hours.”

Met at Old Fira Medical Centre. Always a bit of tension finding the contact.  

The guide was Tania. A real piece of work with her own entertaining style. Tania looked in her fifties. “You will all be my little children today.” She estimates she’s met 250,000 people in her fourteen years as a tour guide!   

First stop was the Elias Monastery. Just a stop for the view really. “Highest point of the island.” Others on the tour noticed I wasn’t taking pictures. (I couldn’t charge the phone and was avoiding taking pictures.) I told them my sad “delayed luggage” story. A woman e-mailed me her pictures from the tour. Very thoughtful. Travelers do stick together! We hung out for a while enjoying the view. Tania took pictures. “I love honeymooners!” “Last one on the bus has to kiss me as a punishment!” 

Tania had great stories. She told us about the theory that Santorini was the site of Plato’s Atlantis. She wasn’t all comedy. She talked about appearing in National Geographic twenty years ago, “When I was young and beautiful.”   

We boarded the Thiria, a “traditional Greek boat.” We went to Pyrgos again. A bit of a surprise. Didn’t mind visiting the Byzantine churches and the village again.

Tania is a real character. Everyone knew her in town, especially the shopkeepers. They all call her Caballo. We got back on the boat and went to the volcanic island. “This island has no name.” Strange hike to the crater. Didn’t look very active. The real attraction is the view of the rest of the caldera. Tania talked about the geology of the area. Very knowledgeable. 

There was a stream of tourist groups headed up to the crater. It looked like it took some doing for our guide to keep the group together. “Right here! The most romantic tour group in the universe! Meet right here!” 

We sailed by Hot Springs with “green sulphur waters.” Then we stopped at Thirassia Island. We could walk up the “winding steps” to Manalos, but I opted to stay by the water and eat at one of the local restaurants. Sea food moussaka. Grilled  calamari and octopus. 

Thirassia looked a little worn down. There were abandoned cottages near the water. Some of the cottages that looked inhabited used a string of barbed wire to keep people off their steps. The wind mills make the town look ancient.   

The tour was going to go on to Oia, but I had a choice of going back to Fira town. I had seen the famous sunset last night, and didn’t want to deal with the crowds in Oia. And I wanted to check on the luggage situation.  

Was the luggage there? No. Now I’m getting aggravated. I call and the situation just gets more bizarre. Byzantine. I can’t use the Kykladonisia phone because it’s an international call. (“My boss won’t let me.”) Pablus explains that they won’t call my cell phone because it’s an international number. I call “Gold Air Handling” again. My phone is running low and the charger is in my luggage. He says my luggage should be delivered tomorrow, but he’s careful to mention, “There is no guarantee.” He says if it doesn’t arrive tomorrow they will ship the bag to Mykonos. (How are they NOT going to screw that up?) My phone runs out while I’m talking to him. 

I get the phone recharged at a Vodaphone shop in Fira. No charge and the young lady won’t even take a tip!  

I almost go to the airport to pick up the luggage. I call first. Good thing. The luggage isn’t there. It’s at some Gold Air Handling warehouse waiting to (maybe) be delivered to me. 

  The next morning. Decision time. I could stay one more night and hang out at the hotel to try and get the luggage. It means I’ll miss “The South Coast Cruise” on Mykonos. I wouldn’t mind another day in Santorini, but I figure screw it. Just keep going! Even if the luggage doesn’t arrive. I’ll buy some essentials. I have a hunch I should just get to Mykonos and stay on track. 

“Gold Air Handling” calls me on the Kykladonisia phone. (Saving the international charge.) The luggage is at the airport. I’m leaving anyway, so I take the bus there and get my precious Rick Steves bag back. A woman at the counter is apologetic. I’ve got my luggage, so I don’t want to make a scene, but I do calmly let her know, “This has not been good.” She seems surprised.  

I cab it to the ferry and get a ticket to Mykonos. The ferries are huge. They look like cruise ships. Not sure how many they hold, but a lot of people boarded. Before they let us board they load scooters, motorcycles, cars, boats and even semi-trucks! Quite a sight. I was there early and went to “Business Class.” Really I was just looking for directions. I wasn’t sure where to go and knew the guy would stop me.

People stored their luggage in an area downstairs, but I wasn’t going for that! I carried the bag upstairs and there were places for carry ons. I took a seat in a back row where I could go out on the deck and still keep an eye on the bag. Paranoia runs deep... 

A pleasant voyage. A bit windy, but great to stand on the deck and watch the coast go by. Spectacular coast views.   

The ferry makes two stops and I get a look at two little port towns. Ios and Pyros. They look very cool. I’m doing a lot of big city, urban stuff on this trip. I wondered what it would be like to hang out in one of these towns for a while. At each stop vehicles and passengers disembark and a new load of people and vehicles comes aboard. A bit of a spectacle in itself. 

When we get to Mykonos people start lining up to get off the ferry. It is the last stop. I’m tempted to just hang back and let the crowd go, but I do join the herd. When the ramp goes down the first people run like crazy down the ramp. I did wonder what the rush was. Most were racing to cabs. I just missed getting one. (In Spain there was an army of taxis at every airport, train or bus station.) There were no cabs in sight and a long queue forming. 

It was still early and I was in no rush anyway. We were in the new port and the town of Mykonos was a couple of miles away. Some people started walking. I spotted a “Sea Bus.” For two Euro it would take me to the town. I knew the hotel was two miles from the town of Mykonos, so I got aboard. It was some kind of converted tour boat with a glass bottom. Sure beat walking with the luggage. 

Mykonos was more like the port towns I saw on the ferry over. It sure had a different pace, even from Santorini. I stopped at a cafe. Some young people were singing Greek songs at a statue in the nearby plaza. Idyllic.

I was going to get a taxi to the hotel. I found the Taxi Stand. I saw a cab and asked the driver if he wanted a fare. “You have to download the app! It’s like Uber!” My God. Even here? I called a number on the stand’s sign and got an analog taxi. 

  

My next hotel was the Mykonos Kosmoplaz. Pictures online made it look like a resort. When I walked in the guy behind the desk greeted me, “Mr. O’Shea, welcome to the Kosmoplaz!” I hadn’t said a word. It probably didn’t take a genius to figure out what reservation hadn’t shown up yet, but these guys, Manos and Dmitris, were sharp. And had a sense of humor. They also had great advice on the area. “If you go to restaurants here make sure you read the menu. (Check the price.) If you walk a little bit down the beach prices go down “for the same thing.” There was a pool! This was ideal after the luggage fiasco.  

The next day was the South Coast Cruise. The tours in Greece had “hotel pick up.” No more going to find the “departure point.” There was always a little tension on other tours finding the contact. Here it was easier for them to just send a van around and pick everyone up. 

Olivia was our tour guide. An attractive young woman from South Africa with a British accent. (“I learned how to speak English by watching Nickelodeon.”) We would board a “traditional Greek Kaiki style ship” and cruise by the beaches of Mykonos. I hadn’t expected much and was more excited about the archaeological tours coming up, but the South Coast Cruise turned out to be maybe the most fun I’ve had on a tour!

We sailed by Paradise Beach. “This is the beach Jackie O. made famous. You can get a bottle of wine for 80,000 Euro! If anyone is buying I’d love to have a glass.” It was still early, so no one was ready to buy an 80,000 Euro bottle.  

There were about thirty on the tour. I met a couple from Detroit and another from Chicago. Rod, from Chicago, asked Olivia about the stone walls on the hillside. (Very similar to those in Ireland.) They were meant as boundaries, but also kept livestock under control. (In Greece “livestock” is sheep and goats.) Why so many abandoned construction sites? Olivia explained: Some ran out of money. Some started building without permits.

Our first stop was a “natural beach,” Frangias. “There will be no sun beds or coffee stands. There will be nothing there.” We stopped and went for a swim. The water really was “crystal clear.” Olivia supplied wine and ouzo, “the drink of the gods!” There was bread and olives. People started to loosen up. 

Turns out Rod worked for Sears in Chicago for thirty years. 78. Knew all the best places on Rush Street. A salesman. He was entertaining. We had lunch in Kalafatis. I visited a nearby small fishing village and church. Coming back I ran into Rod sitting on a rock by the beach. We started gabbing and it struck me. I’m on a remote beach near a fishing village in Greece talking about Chicago night life from the Sixties.  

The next stop would be different. Paradise Beach. Sun beds. Waiters supplying drinks on the beach. The Tropicana Bar: “elected as one of the best beach bars worldwide.” 

I went for a swim. There were mossy rocks at the edge of the water and I slipped and wiped out while entering the water. Looked bad, but I landed in the water. Certainly more people at the beach. Water skis. Boats. Snorkeling. Rafts. Music from the nearby Tropicana. Much different from Frangias. Still a great beach. I can say I swam at Paradise Beach!  

The cruise back was a bit more raucous than when we started. Everybody was best friends now! (Dmitris back at the Kosmoplaz said, “It always works that way!”) A couple jumped up on the cabin and led us in “YMCA.” Much hilarity.

The next day was the tour of Delos. I was very excited about this tour. A ferry took us to the island. It was a thrill to see the marble columns from the boat. Delos was a powerful trade and spiritual center. Apollo was born here! We went for a great tour of the excavated city. There is a great little museum. 

Even while walking the streets and entering the ruins of ancient buildings it was hard to imagine what life had been like here. The tour was too short. I was surprised. (Most tours are too long.) Still a real thrill to be out there. I am trying to keep this “the short version” but plan a more lengthy post.  

I tended to hang out more near the Kosmoplaz in Platys Gialos. The beach was fantastic. It was a short walk from end to end, but there was a lot going on at night.  

There’s not much wildlife in Mykonos and Greece. On the cruise I noticed that there were some sea gulls, but really not that many considering how much coast we sailed by. (There are probably more at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco!) No seals. Only saw small, black fish and not many of those. 

But there were the swallows. At sunset they all roosted on a ridge above Platys Gialos. There was loud rustling up there as they settled down for the night. I tried to capture the sound on a video, but it didn’t really come through. 

So, it was goodbye to Mykonos and Platys Gialos, which had been a needed and refreshing surprise. Manos arranged a ride to the ferry. Dmitris said that if I was late, “You’ll have to stay here another month.”   

It was back to the big city: Athens.