Saturday, November 30, 2019

The San Francisco International Hip Hop Festival



Got the call on Sunday afternoon. A free ticket. It sounded crazy, but I could broaden my horizons. What the heck, why not. I went to the San Francisco International Hip Hop Festival! 
The venue was surprising. The Palace of Fine Arts is the last survivor of the Panama Pacific Exposition of 1915. It’s at the end of San Francisco’s Marina district. A colonnade of classical architecture is next to a large pond. It always looks like the remains of a lost civilization to me. My daughter named it, “The Duck Castle.” 

Groups of dancers wandered the Palace grounds and posed for photographs. They were easy to spot. They didn’t wear uniforms, but they did wear matching tee shirts. I had pictured mobs of gang thugs going through metal detectors and flashing hand signals. Most of the crowd were high school kids. They didn’t look very threatening.  
The Palace of Fine Arts theater has a large open lobby. Hip Hop merchandise and tee shirts were being sold. Small kids ran around out of control. They did donuts around groups of parents waiting to enter the theater. Let them blow off some steam before they settle down for a couple of hours in the theater. Get your goonies out!
This would be the last of three nights of the festival. It was more of a theatrical dance performance. This was the Twentieth annual San Francisco Hip Hop Festival. Even Hip Hop is getting older.  
Most of the crowd was teenagers and younger kids. There were parents and a few older couples. Maybe they were the grandparents. A couple sat a few seats to my right. They had some heavy duty noise cancelation headphones. At least they were making the scene. 
Dancers were onstage loosening up. They took turns taking center stage and doing a solo dance. It looked like a friendly competition. The dancers looked very skilled. I don’t know what they did to qualify for this event. 
A DJ played. The music did get loud, especially the last song. Wild Wild West 
“He’s a good DJ.” “How can you tell?” 

The theater became very dark. It made the onstage lighting more effective. 
The first act was Mozaik from New York. A young Asian woman with very short red hair started the performance.    
Stuck Sanders is from the Bay Area, so he got a big cheer from the crowd. He performed solo. He stood behind what looked like prison bars. Billie Holliday sang “Strange Fruit” while he writhed and tried to escape. I wondered how many in the crowd knew the story about the song. 
I cheered for the troupe from Chicago. Chicago Dance Crash. They did “Leap of Faith.” One tall white guy did some outstanding break dancing. He spun like a top. 
Next up was “Underground Dance Providers/Black Jack Clubbing.” These guys looked a bit exotic. They were from Paris! They performed “Triangulum Australe.” 

There was a fifteen minute intermission. Then the Hungry Sharks from Vienna, Austria came onstage. They may have been the best dancers of the night and they were certainly the most creative. Their number was titled: “#fomo - fear of missing out.”    
The theater was very dark. The only light came from a hand held lamp like they use on construction sites. Only two dancers were onstage. One held the light. The other stood still. The guy holding the light created a large shadow at the back of the stage. He manipulated the large shadow. The other dancer stood perfectly still. All the shadow’s motion was created by the light guy. 
A female dancer came out. The shadow hit her! She reeled back. She danced with the shadow. The dancer and the shadow interact. It was very well done by the guy holding the light. At the end the dancer and shadow embrace.
Three more dancers came onstage. They all pulled out their cellphones and turned on the lights. The lights danced all over the stage. It was very dark and the cellphone lights created trails. For the finale they played a game of Pong, with one light being tapped back and forth! 
The SoulForce Dance Company was from San Francisco, so they got the loudest cheers from the crowd. It sounded like many of their homies were here tonight. They performed “Arrest the President.” “An exasperated attempt to express the weighted feeling toward the current “occupant” of the white house.” They didn’t have to worry about their politics with this audience. 
Bboy Spaghetti was a solo act from Oslo, Norway. Navid Rezvani is Bboy Spaghetti. He was a bit of a contortionist. How does he do that? 
Ambiance Facile came all the way from Paris, France. One guy played a ripping electric guitar, the only instrument onstage tonight that wasn’t a drum. The dancers were in African dress and charged about all over the stage. They got the crowd going with some call and response. 
Most of the dancers came out for the final final. The night had been a great combination of Hip Hop and theatrics.   
 
 

Saturday, October 26, 2019

Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival 2019


Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Nineteen. 
There would be big changes at the Nineteenth Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival. For the first time the entire festival grounds in Golden Gate Park were fenced off. The festival increased security after the recent shootings across the nation. The incident at Gilroy had been particularly troubling. It took a while, but today’s crazy world finally caught up with Hardly Strictly.
  There will be four entrances. Bags would be searched at security checkpoints. The HSB web site explained the new restrictions. Bags should be clear plastic. No more coolers! (More on that later.) No glass containers would be allowed in. No one would be admitted until 9 a.m. There would be no more coming in the middle of the night and setting up tarps.  
That was OK with me. Over the years I had come to hate the tarp people. So, the new rules around that sure didn’t bother me, but fencing off and restricting areas inside the festival would affect me. 
Had there been threats? Did insurance companies demand additional security? I knew Hardly Strictly would be different. It has been changing over the years. How bad could it be?  

The weather was fantastic. It almost always is for HSB weekend. There’s some kind of Hardly Strictly karma at work. I bussed to 30th and walked over to the Fulton Street entrance.    
The bag search at the entrance was well organized and painless. There were three lines: No Bags, Small Bags and Large Bags. It took less than five minutes to walk through.
Large areas are now fenced off. They had started fencing off areas like Lloyd Lake years ago. Maybe they were trying to protect the park more. HSB spends a large amount of money to repair any damage to Golden Gate Park. Large areas are resod. 

Friday is still the best day. Four stages are going. There would be six stages on Saturday and Sunday. There are less people and the atmosphere and vibe is different. The first act of the weekend is Dry Branch Fire Squad at The Banjo Stage. The opening rotation. 
The day started abruptly with some poetry recited by Ron Thomason. The leader of Dry Branch Fire Squad told us that last year someone gave him a book of poetry by Emily Dickinson. At least they didn’t start with the dread public service announcement. This year it would be read before and after every set on every stage. This was a statement from the Warren Hellman Foundation asking for our help and cooperation in keeping the festival safe.
Without further ado Dry Branch Fire Squad took off with a fast, ripping traditional Bluegrass number. “Banjo in the Hills.” They’re the real deal. They still wear shirts and ties!   
Half of the Dry Branch Fire Squad show is Thomason’s homespun humor. He can tell a story. “How many Californians are there out there?” Many hands go up. Thomason says the band is surprised. They had expected “horns and tails.” “I’m not talking too fast for you, am I?”
They do a Townes Van Zandt song.  
Thomason says, “This is a true story. I just got an iPhone last week.” He knows this will shock most of the crowd here. He says he put some blue dye in his hair and was going to “hang out” and be cool.
Their set at HSB this year has “a bit of a theme.” Each song will honor a long time performer at HSB. Next is a Hazel Dickens song about “Home West Virginia.”  
Thomason says she looks young, but Gillian Welch has been performing at Hardly Strictly for years. They play her song: “Miner’s Refrain.” 
They start an accapella Gospel song. I still enjoy Dry Branch Fire Squad, but it’s time to wander and see what else is out there. 

A group of high school students are on the smaller Bandwagon Stage. Most of the crowd look like they are proud parents. It’s The Letterboxers & Model Studentz. They are playing Bluegrass, but a black teenager at the mike sings Rap style lyrics. 
The Bandwagon Stage is right next to the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival Museum. The large white tent is full of the festival’s history and artifacts. All nineteen of the HSB posters with lineups are here. I missed the first Hardly Strictly in 2001. I’ll guess I’ve been to seventeen of them since.  
Warren Hellman's sequined jacket is in a case just inside the entrance. The Stars of David and Hebrew letters on it are still impressive. He will be thanked many times today by performers on the stages. He once cracked that creating the festival was better than, “Buying another painting.” He created a foundation to keep the festival going after his passing. It is still quite a gift to the city of San Francisco. 
 
I walked towards the Polo Fields. Was my not so secret way to the Swan Stage still open? There were more cyclone fences. Few people walked on the trail, but we could get through. 
Today’s priority was Chuck Prophet and the Mission Express. I headed to the Swan Stage for their 1:35 set. The last couple of years Prophet had led a Bluegrass version of The Who’s Tommy. That had been entertaining and stirring, but this year we’d hear some of his songs.
There was some rocking music in the air. Sometimes it’s hard to tell what direction sound is coming from in the park. Did I make the wrong decision? Was I missing something? No! It’s coming from the Swan Stage. I get there in time to hear the last couple of songs from Poor Man’s Whiskey. 
I’m not sure if they did the early show for kids. That was always a spectacle. A field full of school kids would be bussed in for a free show. Later in the day I did see school groups in their matching tee shirts. 
Poor Man’s Whiskey dedicated their next song to a deceased friend: “Whiskey in Heaven.” “Like a River.” They closed the set with a rocker: “Three Years Gone”
Yes, sometimes this will read like a list. 

I checked out the Merchandise Tent and the food concessions in the back of the Swan Stage. The festival was going to ban all coolers, but there was enough public outcry that they lightened up on that. Bringing larger coolers was discouraged, but things became lax as the weekend went on. To fill the gap there were more food options offered this year, especially food trucks. 

Chuck Prophet is a friendly sort onstage. He makes it look easy. Many of his songs celebrate San Francisco history. 
I was able to get close for a side view. Large parts of the Swan Stage area are fenced off. There is a short hill to the right of the stage. That used to be a great spot. More of it is fenced off for family and friends now. I went for the side view on the left of the stage.  
They start with “Summertime Thing.” “Bangkok.” “Wish Me Luck (Even if you don’t mean it.)”  
2016 was “A Bad Year for Rock and Roll.” It was the year we lost David Bowie, Prince, Leon Russell and many others in a stunning election year. 
Stephanie Fitch on accordion for “I Love You Still.” 
It is Friday. A school day. Chuck asks the crowd: “Don’t you people have jobs? I know I don’t.” 
  Chuck Prophet reminds me of Ray Davies. He sings like him and some of lyrics remind me of Davies. “Bobby Fuller Died for Your Sins” is a “Caifornia Noir song.”
Then the big hit: “Who Put the Bomp.” Who put the “ram” in the rama lama ding dong? “You did!”   
  “Mausoleum.” 
  A large Red Tail Hawk hovers over JFK Drive. The crowds at the festival never seem to bother them. It was a smaller than usual crowd for an HSB Friday. Did some decide to wait a day and see how the “enhanced security” worked out?

The Waterboys came highly recommended so I just stayed at the Swan Stage. I thought they were all Irish, but the members are from Scotland, Ireland and England. At least they’re all Celts.   
“When Ye Go Away” “Fisherman’s Blues.”
I got a text from Jack Stuber, founding member of the band Corn Bread Willie. He was at The Towers of Gold Stage with his wife Tree and daughter Jackie. They were waiting for “Live From Here” which would be taping a radio broadcast that would air later. Chris Thile, Grace Potter & J.S. Ondara would be performing.
We met by the concession stands and compared notes. HSB has been changing over the years. We knew it would never be the same.  
I recognized the song while they were tuning up. “They’re playing my song.” The Rolling Stones’ “Dead Flowers!” “I won’t forget to put roses on your grave!” One of those HSB moments for me. 
“Still Awake.” “London Mick.” It’s not about Mick Jagger. 
A particularly determined woman in a wheelchair pushed her way around the fringes of the crowd. She had a basket full of soft drinks and an HSB tee shirt on. Nothing was going to stop her from enjoying an afternoon at HSB. She would run them over if she had to.  
We were introduced to the band. Paul is the keyboard player: “The Cosmic Commander.” He whipped his shirt off during “The Greatest organ solo in Rock history” during “Brother.” He later stalked the stage playing a keytar.  
“Nashville, Tennessee.” “Medicine Bow.”
“Things are not looking good for the Orange Defiler.” Everyone knew who that was.  
“You Married the Wrong Guy.” “The Whole of the Moon.” “My Time on Earth.” The Waterboys are a great live band!  
I was close to the 30th Avenue exit. It was decision time. Should I do another lap around the festival grounds? If I did I’d have to get back to the exit at 30th Avenue. I took the easy route and left. As I left I got another look at the Bag Search area at the entrance. It was still very easy to get in. The real test would be tomorrow.
I went home and watched Bettye Lavette online. She put on a powerful R&B performance.
I had seen St. Paul and the Broken Bones open for The Stones in June. That is always a difficult gig, but they did deliver while people searched for their seats. The singer wore the long black robe again.  Another great live party band.    
Friday is stil the best day at HSB. It’s less crowded and has a different laid back  atmosphere.  

Saturday. October 5. 
My stategy was to go later than I usually do. Saturday is the big party night for Hardly Strictly. Many who live nearby decide to go at the last minute and join the throngs. Would the “enhanced security” discourage them this year?  
Sometimes I still forget about the technology. While I waited at home I had a flash of inspiration: I can watch some of it online before I go. So, I went to the web site and watched some of Buddy Miller’s Cavalcade of Stars. Travis Meadows was the featured artist. He looked like a young guy. One of his songs was about “Waiting on Springsteen.”  
“Unfinished Business.” “Pushing Down Comes Out Sideways.”
Watched online for a while, but it was another beautiful day and I took off for the real thing. 
I took the bus to 25th. Today I would try the entrance at John F. Kennedy and Transverse Drive. This was the closest entrance from my apartment as the crow flies, but we were herded to an entrance east of the Festival that was almost all the way to the DeYoung museum. An aggravation, but it would serve well for future reference.  
The bag search line went quickly again. I could hear the Flatlanders as I entered. I see them every year, so I had planned to skip them this year, but I was drawn to their sound like a moth to the flame. “Have you ever seen Dallas from a DC10 at night?”
The gang from Lubbock, Texas was rocking onstage: Butch Hancock, Joe Ely, Jimmie Dale Gilmore. Got there in time for “Standing at the Station” and the familiar voice of Jimmie Dale Gilmore. They did a tribute to Robert Hunter, who had passed away about a week ago. “Ripple.” Deadheads swirled. “Julia.” “Borderless Love.”” 

The Public Service Announcement by the Warren Hellman Foundation was read again. It was starting to get old, but there were people arriving for their first time of the new era.  

This is the weekend to get your best tee shirt out of the drawer. Among the shirts: An ancient looking “Zappa for President.” Frank in the patriotic red, white and blue top hat.
“Popovich/Kerr 2020.” A potential campaign logo for the Democratic party?
I loved: “Volunteer for Psychedelic Research.”  

Time to wander. Caught some more of Buddy Miller’s Cavalcade: Rob Ickes and Trey Hensley. “World Full of Blues.” It was odd to see the stage I had been watching online just this morning.

I went to the back of the jammed Swan Stage area. It was early and it was already packed. I could hear Tank The Bangas in the distance. They were at The Towers of Gold and it sounded like they were tearing it up. They got an ovation and cheers from the crowd.  

For years Robert Earl Keen closed the Saturday show at The Rooster Stage. It would be the rowdy end to a day at HSB. The Rooster Stage would be a convenient stop for me as I left the festival. This year Keen would play earlier at 3 p.m. at the much larger Swan Stage. Keen had not played at HSB in a couple of years. 
In years past the crowd at the Swan Stage would overflow and people could go across JFK Drive. That wasn’t a bad spot really. You couldn’t see much, but you could hear and there was some breathing room. Now it was all fenced off.
There was a huge crowd that stretched to the back of Lindley Meadow. It was hotter today and people tried to get spots under what little shade there was. One side of the field would have people camped out under the trees all the way to the back. There was more room on the hot, sunny side. 
“What I Really Mean.” “Feelin’ Good Again.” “Gringo Honeymoon.” “Shades of Gray.” “The Traveling Storm.” “Beats the Devil.” “The Man Behind the Drums.” “Sinner Man.” The crowd whooped it up on the grand finale: “The Road Goes on Forever.” 
His voice really does sound like Bob Dylan.   
Robert Plant & The Sensational Shape Shifters would be playing at The Towers of Gold stage, which is a huge area with two sloping hills that create an outdoor amphitheater.
It was still early. I’d have to make it through Calexico and Iron & Wine. I already knew Iron & Wine was very popular with younger fans. They had drawn too many fans to the Rooster Stage a couple of years ago.  
I took a look. The Towers of Gold area was packed. Even in the back it looked like there was nowhere to go. I had never seen this area so crowded. There was nowhere to hide. Too much of the area near stage right was fenced off for VIPs, friends and family. That had been one of my usual spots. I started wondering how much it cost to get VIP status.     
It could be two hours before Plant and the Shape Shifters started playing. People were still pouring in. The cyclone fences funneled the crowd along JFK Drive.  
In previous years I would have just walked around to less crowded areas. I would check out other stages, but even this looked hard to do. When I looked up JFK Drive it already looked impassable.    
It looked like it could be an ordeal to wait for Plant. I was right near the 30th Street entrance. I decided to go home and watch what I could online. The spirit was willing, but the flesh was weak. 
The lines for bag search still didn’t look long. The Saturday night crowd would be the big test. Ragged entrepeneurs were carrying cases of canned beer in. 
Everything isn’t streamed on the web site. I should have figured that there would be copyright issues with the Zeppelin songs. (Somewhere Peter Grant is smiling.)
Watched some of Calexico with Iron & Wine. I can understand why they’re so popular, but I wasn’t disappointed that I didn’t stay.
I was glad to be watching from a chair. A couple of years ago they started removing any bench or table that someone could sit at. There was nowhere to take a break from sitting on the grass.  

Watched the last act of Buddy Miller’s Cavalcade of Stars online. Buddy Miller & Dirk Powell with Stuart Duncan. “Shelter Me Lord Under Your Wings.”   
Dirk Powell on keyboards. Some sound problems. It may have been the wind. A microphone went out and Buddy cracked, “It doesn’t mean as much without the lyrics.”  
“Hear That Whistle Blow.” “Wide River to Cross.” “Rollin’ Round This Town.” 
Maria Muldaur joined for “I’m A Woman.” “Honey Baby Blues.” “My Old Tennessee Home.” The young beauty from the Seventies was aging, but she can still belt out the old songs!  
Steve Earle and the Dukes. They started with songs from their new album, “Guy.” It’s a tribute to Guy Clark. “Texas 1947.” “Riat Ballou.” “Heartbroke.” “Desperadoes Waiting for a Train.” Earle talked about the reclusive Guy Clark. He rarely played live but loved being at The Songwriter’s Circle at The Rooster Stage.
Steve Earle was great, as usual, but I couldn’t resist switching to Hot Tuna. They  were playing at The Rooster Stage. Originals from the Summer of Love were playing in Golden Gate Park again! “Been So Long.” “Hesitation Blues.” “Come Back Baby.”   

Sunday. October 6.
It was back to “come early, leave early” for me. Arrived at 10:30. Seeing Bill Kirchen was the priority today. He would start things off at the Banjo Stage at 11. I had an excellent Verde Empanada from one of the food trucks.
Bill Kirchen is another act I see almost every year, but I’ve learned Kirchen is always worth it. “Get a Little Goner.” Another tribute to Hazel Dickens: “West Virginia My Home.” 
“This is my tribute to the Telecaster:” “Hammer of the Honky Tonk Gods.”
Austin DeLone is on keyboards. His daughter joins for the Rhythm and Blues classic: “That’s How Strong My Love Is.” 
Kirchen introduces “My science song... It’s sad these things have to be said.” “Rocks in the Sand.”
The piece de resistance: “Hot Rod Lincoln.” Kirchen does an incredible medley of short guitar riffs in tribute to Rock and Roll icons from Elvis to Iggy Pop and almost anyone you can think of in between! Duane Eddy, Link Wray, B.B. King, Muddy Waters, Chuck Berry, Little Richard, The Beatles, The Stones, The Who. Kirchen does the Townsend windmill. They’re all represented. The Jimi Hendrix riff gets a big cheer. 
Kirchen went to high school with Iggy Pop! There have to be some stories there. 
A song that is a botanical anachronism. Kirchen tells us, “I didn’t write it, but I wish I had.” “Down to Seeds and Stems Again Blues.” “Pot doesn’t have seeds or stems anymore.” Not only that, there’s at least one generation that finds it hard to believe that marijuana ever had seeds. It’s an old Commander Cody song. “We played it here.” In Golden Gate Park in the Sixties. Someone in the band asks, “Were we in the Grateful Dead?” Kirchen: “No, no, no.”   
Kirchen says he’ll be at The Bandwagon Stage to join Nancy and the Lambchops at 1:25.
A song that is always relevant. “The Times They Are A Changing.” A chorus including Jimmie Dale Gilmore comes onstage to help out.
A large formation of Canada Geese flew right over the crowd. They seemed to be oblivious to the festivities below. The migrants get some applause. 
  After the set the MC commented. Sometimes Hardly Strictly is on the same weekend as Fleet Week, which means screaming jets “and all it represents” buzzing the festival. This year we get the opposite. Canada Geese in perfect V formation. Geese rotate leaders. They take turns at the front of the formation. So should we. “We can do it!” 

Golden Gate Park is the perfect setting for the psychedelic nostalgia of Moonalice. I could still walk up to a good vantage point left of the Swan Stage. They start with a medley that ends with “Uncle John’s Band.” The “T Sisters” (Tietjen) added vocal accompanient. A couple of Grateful Dead songs: A slow “Bird Song.” “Attics of My Life.” Moonalice sounds like they just stepped out of the Sixties. 
Roger McNamee is the singer. Psychedelic veterans incude Pete Sears of Jefferson Airplane and Starship fame. Barry Sless. John Molo. 
Moonalice arranges the live stream on the Hardly Strictly web site. They should be commended for this public service that is becoming more important every year.    
There’s a pause while a few things are rearranged onstage. A stool is set up and an old black man sits on it. It’s Lester Chambers and his nephew Jerry Warner Chambers. The New Chambers Brothers! Lester has one request. “Do me a favor... Don’t get old!” I get what he means but what’s the alternative? They do the classic Sixties song: “Love Peace and Happiness.” “This is one we played here back then.” 
The cowbell beat announces “Time Has Come Today.” An epic song that jolts the memory banks. This song recharged many house parties. The crowd was into Moonalice from the start. Everyone claps along to this one.
Sadly the “other” Chambers Brother passed away later that week. "Time!"      
     
The Pimps of Joytime were playing at the nearby Towers of Gold Stage. I gave them a chance for three songs. They were good, but certainly not my thing.
There’s just too much territory fenced off for VIP family and friends. 
  
It was a much different scene at The Towers of Gold Stage today. Less than half the area was full. I climbed up a steep path to the Polo Fields. Then I walked over to the Bandwagon and Banjo Stage areas.
Bill Kirchen posed for photos in front of the Bandwagon Stage, so I knew he really was there. I could hear Liz Cooper & The Stampede tearing it up on the Banjo Stage. They sounded rocking. It was tempting to wander over there but I knew their set was almost over. 
Nancy and the Lambchops feature some of the Hellman family. Warren’s sister Nancy Hellman Bechtle sings with her nieces. The band seems to struggle a bit. I decided not to wait for Kirchen.   

A golf cart with four guys in SWAT team gear came down JFK Drive and slowly turned into the Bandwagon Stage area. They were all in black and carried machine guns. It was SFPD’s “Tactical Unit.” It was kind of strange, but they looked relaxed. Regular uniformed police were a rare sight at HSB.    
   
Rayland Baxter was playing at the Rooster Stage. He’s a surprise HSB discovery. He rocked out on the two songs I got to hear.  
I guess I had to see it to believe it. For years I had entered HSB at the back of The Rooster Stage. It was usually my first and last look at the festival for the year. I went up the path, but it was obvious that the old exit was fenced off. A few extra security guards wandered the back. It just doesn’t seem to be right. Don’t Fence Me In!

It was getting easier to leave. I got home in time to watch The Meat Puppets online. I didn’t know much about these guys, except that they had a cool name. They look like grunge geezers. One thing about watching online is that you can see what’s going on onstage. I could see Steve Earle lurking in the background backstage.  
Lebo and Friends. An exciting live act. They covered Bob Dylan’s “Serve Somebody” from his controversial evangelical Christian days. 

I wanted to see Mike Nesmith and the First National Band. After his Monkee days Nesmith did some Americana albums, but I have to admit the real draw for me would have been to see a Monkee. He was at The Rooster Stage that was again plagued by sound problems. I lost patience and pressed the button to go to Banjo Stage for The Punch Brothers. They were entertaining and Chris Thile does have star power.  

Hardly Strictly is still an amazing, fantastic event. “Enhanced security” is the new reality, but the cyclone fences are a drag. Maybe I dwelled too much on the negative this year. The changes certainly don’t ruin Hardly Strictly. Golden Gate Park is still the perfect setting. It’s a miracle The Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival still happens. Maybe it’s a miracle it ever happened. 




 
 
 

Friday, August 30, 2019

The Rolling Stones at Levi Stadium


The Stones delivered another astounding show at Levi Stadium. The critics and media are unanimous. If there are any cynical comments about the aging rockers they are quickly tempered with awe at The Stones performances.
The show was at the still relatively new Levi Stadium in Santa Clara. The home of the NFL’s Forty-Niners is about forty miles from San Francisco. This was the show rescheduled from May 18. That made it a long wait for my sister Joan. Mick’s heart valve problems seemed far in the past. 
This was our first visit to Levi Stadium, so we weren’t familiar with the venue. We toyed with the idea of taking the train, but there just seemed to be too many things that could go wrong with that. If it was a Forty-Niners game we might experiment and take a chance. I was glad Joan decided to drive.
We left early. I had seen them in Chicago eight weeks ago, but I still had some pre-Stones nerves. There was no way around it. This could really, really, really be The Last Time. We both just wanted to get there.
It’s hard to get nostalgic for Candlestick Park, but the place did have its moments, and you didn’t have to drive to Santa Clara to get there. It’s only forty miles, but it seemed like a long drive. There was too much traffic for a Sunday. The plan was to get there early and tailgate in the parking lot. 
We lucked out on Highway 101. There was a serious looking crash that we passed right after it happened. The Highway Patrol were still on their way there. We were lucky to get by it when we did. 

We had pre-paid parking in “Blue Lot 1” and did a little tailgate thing. Pre-Stones excitement was in the air. Fans set up grills and blasted Stones music. We could see the roller coasters from Great America. This would be Show 44 for me. Joan said she went to “about half of that.” It sounds impressve or a bit crazy to some people, but I know that hard core fans have seen The Stones over a hundred times! We reminisced. The Stones have given us a lot of memories. The world is a different place than it was in 1972.    
It was the day after the Fiftieth anniversary of Woodstock. I did see a couple of Woodstock tee shirts!

I tried to keep an open mind about Levi Stadium. It just looked too synthetic. Too Silicon Valley. Maybe it was because the venue is still very new. We had heard nightmare stories about the traffic around the stadium, especially when trying to leave the parking lot after Forty-Niner games.
The original show would have been on a Saturday night. Now it’s on a Sunday. Santa Clara and the Niners have been battling about late concerts. The local paper said the city wanted to enforce the Sunday night ten o’clock curfew. Other acts have ignored the curfew and paid a one thousand dollar fine. 
It was time. We took the “twelve minute walk” to the stadium. We weren’t in a hurry, but it was certainly took longer than the advertised twelve minutes.
This was a larger crowd than a Niners game. With seats on the field and “The Pit” there would be 50,000 here tonight. It was hard to get to the seats. It was hard to get anywhere. There were human traffic jams around very long concession lines. 
We were in Section 207. The seats were close to the middle of the stadium. We were farther back but it was still closer than the upper deck. We were in the middle of the row. Once I got to the seat I wasn’t moving. To be fair Levi Stadium does look like a great place to watch an NFL game. Once you get there. 
Vista Kicks opened. They were a local band from Roseville. They were a “nice” band. They were in awe at opening for The Stones. Family and friends celebrated in a luxury box behind us. It was the usual story. It’s hard to open for the Stones. They were good, but there were just too many distractions. It was still a thrill for the local band. 

A little before nine the lights went down, the huge screens lit up and the intro started. There’s nothing like those first few minutes. All the anticipation explodes in Keith’s first riffs of Jumping Jack Flash. Would this be the last time I hear it live?
Right into Let’s Spend the Night Together. A song from 1965. Unbelievable. I was in eighth grade when this was a hit.  
Mick is over the top. The greatest front man ever. He was frisky and mischievous tonight. Nobody struts like Mick. 
It’s true. The band has never sounded this great. The engine room is going full throttle. 
The band was in a good mood. It was  obvious that they enjoy what they do. Even Charly was smiling once in a while! There aren’t that many shows left. On this tour.
The sound was incredible. The Stones have always been the masters of the Rock spectacle. The lights and screens are perfectly synched. I got more of the full effect of the screens. I realized what a theater piece a Stones show is. There is a certain timing and pace to it.    
There had been a few kinks on Opening Night in Chicago. I wasn’t sure if they were technical problems or just plain “misfires.” They have been ironed out by now.  

Mick said it was their fortieth show in the Bay Area. “I still remember the smell in the Cow Palace!” He gave his usual local plugs to the Buena Vista Cafe’s Irish Coffee and “the ferry to Alcatraz.” He did the roll call of local towns: “Anyone here from Oakland? Stockton? Modesto? And last: San Francisco! Which did get the loudest cheer. Mick said something about Facebook, Apple and Google, but I couldn’t understand what he said. As the show went on he addressed the crowd as San Francisco. “C’mon San Francisco!”  

I knew the crowd would not be as intense as Chicago, but it was still surprising when people started sitting down during the third song, Tumbling Dice. I have to admit that when those in front of me sat and I could see, I sat down. In Chicago the crowd stood for most of the show. Even in the upper deck! California crowds are usually more laid back. They seem to have a reserve. But they did sing and everyone still goes nuts for the last songs.  

There were a few surprises. Out of Control always sounds great live.  
Mick announced they would do the “call-in” song. As potential titles flew around the screen he said, “Wear some flowers in your hair? We don’t know that one.” A great version of Rocks Off followed. “The sunshine bores the daylights out of me.” 
The core four walked out to the small stage near the fifty yard line. Mick said, “It’s like being in your auntie’s front room, but with more people.” That must be some front room. Stagehands scrambled to get the band set up. 
They had to play Sweet Virginia. The line “Thank you, for your wine, California!” gets a big cheer. Does any song capture The Stones history better than Let It Bleed? Ronnie played great slide on a horizontal acoustic.  
Red flares behind the stage cast an eerie smoke screen for Sympathy for the Devil.  
We were near the airport and I’ll guess fifty jets flew close to the stadium during the show. The funny thing is, you couldn’t hear them! That’s how loud it was. What kind of a view did they have from the planes? “This is your pilot speaking. And on the left side you can see The Rolling Stones performing in Levi Stadium.” It must have been a sight. 

Honky Tonk Woman. Long time keyboardist Chuck Leavell gets to stretch it out.
Keith was more with it. He seemed low key at the Chicago shows. He’s certainly more out in front tonight. Before his two songs he said, “This is fun. I woudn’t do it otherwise.” He looked like he was enjoying himself, but he still had his usual reptilian death warmed over look. His segment: You  Got the Silver & Before They Make Me Run, was one of the best I’ve seen him do.
Ronnie Wood was a litte more in the background tonight. One of his highlights was the slide on Let It Bleed. And of course the weaving with Keith. His antics lighten things up.

During Midnight Rambler Mick sat on the drum riser and acted like he was taking a short break. After a few seconds he jumped up and sprinted out onto the main ramp. He was playful tonight. He leaned and then laid on backup singer Sasha’s back. They did a very spirited version of Miss You that featured a Daryl Jones bass solo.  
Midnight Rambler was astounding. It’s become the center piece. The band really jams. It has to have some of the baddest, most menacing Blues riffs ever! Midnight Rambler is the ultimate hoodlum song. Mick sings a few lines from You Gotta Move.   

It’s time for the old War Horses. Paint It Black. Start Me Up. Brown Sugar. The songs they must play. They left the stage for a short time and came back for Gimmie Shelter and Satisfaction.  
   
I tried to avoid the whole This Could Be the Last Time thing, but during Satisfaction it started to hit me. This really could be the last song. I’ve thought that so many times in the past that I couldn’t get too maudlin, and the band was so rocking and upbeat that I didn’t think about the finality that much. 
The show seemed to come to an abrupt end. They didn’t shoot off the fireworks!  Which was all right with me. I wonder what their shows would be like without the spectacle and pyrotechnics. The good citizens of Santa Clara would not be woken by the final barrage. 
It must have been a compromise with Santa Clara authorites. I hope The Stones can come up with the thousand dollars for breaking the curfew.







 

Thursday, July 25, 2019

The Rolling Stones in Chicago 2019


How could it be Mick? If it was Keith we would just shrug. The Stones did survive his fall out of the coconut tree. There have always been drug and legal problems that threatened the existence of the band. But Mick? He’s the guy who is always in control, or at least looks like he’s in control. The son of the gym coach who amazed audiences with his athletic performances. The news of his heart valve problems shook up fans.  
The No Filter Tour was “postponed.” The Stones juggernaut ground to a halt. A Stones tour has huge logistics. Shows were seldom canceled. Once a tour started rolling it took on a life of its own. To hard core Stones fans the delay was more than an inconvenience.  
The marvels of modern medicine soon set things right and posts on social media showed Mick doing an aerobic dance routine. The new tour schedule had them opening in Chicago! That could really work for me. I usually visit there this time of year anyway. So, it wasn’t as crazy as it sounds. It would be a cheap trip for me. I was chasing legends again!
I’ve been know to lose all perspective when it comes to The Stones, so I’ll admit I’m not exactly impartial. But if they did fall on their face or were not up to the standards they had created I would certainly report it. There have been bad songs and misfires, but they usually pull it out at the end. The media would love to see them blow it. There have been wheelchair and walking cane jokes for over twenty years now. The Stones are too old to screw around anymore. There might be more pressure on them to deliver than there ever has been.    
The cancel/replace had made Friday June 21 the first show. One of my fellow editors of the Chicago Dip, Tom McEntegart, got me a ticket for the second show, but I had to get one for the first one. I’d never been to a tour opener. Every Stones show is historic, but this one would be dramatic. I had to be there when Mick hit the stage again. 
There were plenty of tickets around. I’m not very experienced with buying tickets online, but I got one in Section 436 for $230. I knew I would be way up there in the upper deck. It wouldn’t be like the old days when I could weasel into a better spot somewhere. Security inside arenas is much tighter these days.   

Soldier’s Field really does look like the aliens dropped a space ship onto the middle of the historic stadium. I went to football games and other events there while growing up in Chicago. The winners of the Public League High School Championship used to play the Catholic League Champions for the City title at Soldier’s Field. The College All Star Game pitted college all stars against the NFL Champions. Both games were big annual deals, but they have since been discontinued. I did see the Bears play there before it was renovated, and I have seen The Stones play there.  
We parked in the underground garage. Stones music was playing from auto radios and the garage’s speaker system! It wasn’t a great place for tailgating. One well prepared couple had set up a card table with wine, cheese and candles. It was a touch of elegance near the garage elevators. 
My adrenaline was pumping as we got near the security area. My ticket was on my cell phone and it wouldn’t scan. A security supervisor informed me that, “It was a Will Call situation. Go to Gate 10.” This was nerve wracking, but I didn’t panic. 
It was early and there was pre-Stones show excitement in the air. I didn’t pay too much attention to the booth for the “sole sponsors” of the tour. “The Alliance for Lifetime Income” would  raise awareness of saving for retirement. It sounds like a noble cause, but it strikes me as strange. A large screen showed a film clip on how the massive stage was set up. I did get to watch the video later. There was a special entrance for those who needed assistance with wheel chairs. 
There was no line at Will Call. As I walked up about five black ticket scalpers converged on me. In the short time it took me to get to the window one guy had asked me three times if I was looking for tickets. The scalpers looked desperate and a bit shaky. I’m glad I didn’t have to deal with them. 
It looked like they were still selling tickets at Will Call. Two older guys celebrated that they got tickets. The guy inside the booth quickly had my ticket displayed on the phone. “Don’t change the page.” Uh no. I’m going right in.
It was déjà vu when I entered Soldier’s Field. The interior of the entrance area looked exactly the same. It brought back memories. I was in!    
Most of the crowd were geezers, but I’m certainly used to that now. The Chicago audience brings a different intensity to any Rock show. It looked like everyone had a Stones tee shirt on. Veteran fans knew what was going to happen. There were some obvious family groups. Mom and Dad were passing the torch to a new generation. There were groups of younger people intent on partying and finding out what the Stones are about. It was the thing to do tonight in Chicago.  
There were very long lines at the Merchandise booths. People were lined up about fifty deep. This stuff is available online, but these fans want a souvenir they had bought at the show.   
It was still early and I went up the stairs to check out the Colonnade. It’s an outdoors concourse that faces out on the lake and skyline. The tall pillars from the original stadium remain.   
There was a lot going on in the area around Soldier’s Field. The tents of Cirque de Soleil were not far away. I could see the new outdoor arena at the former Meiggs Field. Northerly Island is a new music venue I hadn’t even heard of. There’s a temporary exhibition on Alexander Hamilton. 

There was a human logjam in the concourse that led to the upper deck seats. It took a while to navigate the crowd and get to the seat, and it was still early. Soldier’s Field is an NFL facility, but the renovation has created some design flaws. It was hard to find a bathroom and the section signs were confusing. Bears season ticket holders probably know where they’re going. I made it up the stairs to row 27. 
Saint Paul and the Broken Bones are a great Ryhthm and Blues party band. I had seen them at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass and they got the crowd up and dancing there, but opening for the Stones is tough. People took a long time getting to their seats. I’d guess about half the audience were in their seats when the set was over. They sounded great, but most of the crowd was distracted. 
People struggled to climb the stairs. Aged Boomers would stop and take a break on the way up. They’d gasp for air and look up the stairs, trying to figure out how many more rows they had to climb.
A young couple was on my right. I’ll guess they were in their thirties. There was about a forty-five minute wait after the opening act. They griped about the wait. I restrained myself. The Stones were notorious for making an audience wait. The first time I saw them the wait well over two hours. 
It wasn’t the Seventies. All shows now have a more family atmosphere. They just aren’t as wild now. There was a little pot smoking, but there wasn’t a cloud of smoke hanging in the air. I didn’t see anyone doing lines in the seats. There wouldn’t be bottles of Jack Daniels on top of the amps tonight.  
There was a very light rain. Almost a mist. Stagehands mopped the runways that ran out from the main stage. We can’t have Mick wiping out on a slippery stage. When the crew left the crowd cheered and gave them a hand. It was a sign that the show would soon begin.  
The house lights dimmed, the crowd roared and the screens lit up. First song. Opening Night. The tension and drama were really ramped up. Keith blasted onto the stage and the audience erupted. He always gets the first riff. Mick came charging out behind him. There’s nothing like the energy and adrenaline of those first few moments. The crowd greeted Mick on his return. It was more than the usual Rock star idolatry. He certainly looked happy. The band looked ecstatic to be back onstage. Stones shows are always a celebration of survival, but I hadn’t imagined that it would be a celebration of Mick’s survival.   
I would have bet the first song would be Jumpin’ Jack Flash. It took me a minute to figure out what song it was. Street Fighting Man was an appropriate choice to start a show in Chicago. Then it was right into Let’s Spend the Night Together. That was a good sign that we could be in for some older songs. They mixed it up with Tumbling Dice. 
Everyone had sat through the opening band. When the Stones started everybody got up and at least stood for most of the night.There was none of the “down in front” bullshit. Most of the crowd did take a break and sat during the Keith segment. That seems to be part of the routine at Stones shows now. The crowd was very into it from the start and sang along loudly on most songs.   
The sound was phenomenal. There was a bit of echo off the modern steel and glass club level in the farther reaches of Soldier’s Field, but that was mostly the vocals. It wasn’t too distracting and it made Mick’s singing sound a bit more dramatic. 
The sound was so good that I could understand Mick’s patter between songs. “We decided to open up here instead of Miami.” “This is our thirty-eighth time playing in Chicago!” The eighth time in Soldier’s Field.  
This was show forty-one for me, as close as my research shows. My total impresses some people, but there are fans that have gone to hundreds of shows. That impresses me. 
Mick admitted that he’s never had an Italian Beef. There was a shout out to the new mayor, Lori Lightfoot. A black lesbian mayor in Chicago? How things have changed. He made a surprising crack that embattled Alderman Edward Burke “can’t be here tonight.” (Burke’s offices had been recently raided by the Feds.) Even Mick should be careful when talking about Chicago politics. 
Sad Sad Sad. Mick plays guitar. You Got Me Rocking. They used to be new songs, but now they are live show rarities. A nod to Steel Wheels. Great to hear these live again. After You Can’t Always Get What You Want they strolled out to the small stage while 2120 Michigan Avenue played on the speakers. We weren’t that far from the legendary Chess recording studios. 
Stagehands scrambled to get them set up. They did a couple of acoustic classics: Angie and Dead Flowers. Two songs with memories and meaning for me.    

No one works the house like Jagger, and he was really hot tonight. He prowled the long ramps that put him closer to the crowd. He doesn’t do as many of the long insane runs from one side of the massive stage to the other, but he did cover a lot of territory. It was clear that he was proving a point. He’s not going to come back at half speed. 
Keith was laid back. I think he lets Mick have the spotlight more, especially on this comeback show. Mick did get most of the media attention. Keith was great during his segment, but most of the show was about Mick tonight. Ronnie Wood was outstanding. He was his usual gregarious Rock Star self. Charlie Watts looks elderly and a bit frail. How does he do it? He usually looks serious, like he’s really not with these hooligans, but it was clear he was enjoying seeing Mick’s return.  
  
There were some squawks and dissonance in the early going. Keith and Ronnie Wood seem to be experimenting a bit and sometimes that veers out of control. Sometimes they just hit a bad note. It is live. Some fans still expect it to sound like the record.   
My seat in section 436 wasn’t bad considering the price. I was house left, stage right, the Ronnie Wood side. It had a good sightline to watch the spectacle unfold. I could see the planetarium from my seat. It’s certainly not the same as being near the stage, but I wasn’t going to pay $2,000 to get closer.
The huge screens are a necessary part of the show. At least you can really see what’s going on onstage. The Stones are not just dots. The screens are sixty feet tall!
The drumbeat for Sympathy for the Devil played while the boys made their way back to the main stage. The Chicago crowd loudly echoed Mick’s woo-woo’s!   
Honky Tonk Woman featured Stones veteran Chuck Leavel. Keith took center stage for You Got the Silver and his anthem: Before They Make Me Run. Yes, it’s good to be anywhere.   
Miss You is always a big sing along hit with the Chicago crowd. Darryl Jones is a Chicago native so he got a big hand during the intros. Miss You puts him in the spotlight with a bass solo. 
Does any song bring back memories of the Sixties like Paint It Black?  
A great version of Midnight Rambler. The band really lets loose on this one. It’s clear they enjoy jamming on this song. Mick wore one of the No Filter tour tee shirts. He took it off and threw it in The Pit! There must have been a struggle for that souvenir. Midnight Rambler still has a sinister edge and it’s a great intro to the grand finale. The show seemed to go fast. It was time for the grand finale. Songs that have to be played. Start Me Up. Jumpin’ Jack Flash and Brown Sugar. 

They left the stage for a short time and came back for Gimmie Shelter. Sasha Allen was the female singer. She sounded great despite some kind of microphone screw up, but she’s not Lisa Fischer. Most of the crowd sings Satisfaction. Bombs and rockets go off as they take their bows. 
So, how was the show? Astounding! Inspirational. Emotional and dramatic. Especially the first song. The Stones have survived adversity before, but Mick’s health scare shook up fans. There’s no doubt Mick is back. How much farther the train will keep rolling is another question.    
   
Night 2. Tuesday. June 25. Went with brother Matt. His wife Cathy and her friend Mara had tickets in General Admission. GA didn’t look good to me even from the upper deck. It was a long way from the stage, but they said it was great. I heard tickets in The Pit were $600 and sold for up to $1200 on Stubhub.
It was show two for me so I was a little more relaxed. We were headed south on Lake Shore Drive when a Severe Weather Alert came over the radio. A heavy thunderstorm hit us. It was pouring! Visibility went to zero. The hail crashing on the roof really sounded scary. I couldn’t believe there were no dents on the car. This was more than a normal summer rainstorm. It didn’t last long. Gimmie Shelter!  
A heavy mist made the downtown skyscrapers look like they were suspended in air. Cathy said we were entering “The Emerald City.”  A huge rainbow arced over Lake Michigan. It was hard to believe, but it didn’t rain at Soldier’s Field. 
There were very positive reviews of the first show and word of mouth had spread. There had been many tickets online for night two, but as the show drew near they seemed to dry up. A few desperate souls were trying to buy one in the parking lot and near the stadium. I didn’t see any sellers.
Our seats were pretty much the same. Way up there in Section 432. Even though I had seen them four nights ago my adrenaline was pumping again as show time approached. I was getting those old feelings again. It was surprising to hear Jumpin’ Jack Flash as the first song. They play twenty songs. Seven of them would be different at the second show. 
There has been some recent criticism about the racist, misogynist song Brown Sugar. Some have suggested that they stop playing it. Is playing Bitch a response to that? The Stones seldom shied away from controversy. Those easily offended should relax. No one can understand the lyrics anyway. 
It was a little harder to understand Mick between songs, but he mentioned Illinois governor Pritzker. The crowd booed and grumbled, but Pritzker did sign the bill legalizing marijuana in Illinois that day! There were a few cheers for the legislation. It figures I was in Illinois the day the state legalized recreational marijuana. It was a day we had dreamed of. Mick said it should have been done long ago.   
The crowd was certainly into it. Maybe even a little more than the first show. Could this be the last Stones show in Chicago? They finally played a Chicago Blues song. Ride ‘Em on Down. Blues icons looked down from the tall screens. Muddy Waters and Howlin’ Wolf seemed to approve.   
  Monkey Man. It took a while for this one to kick in, but it was great to hear this classic again. It doesn’t get much more basic than this. Mick screaming, “I’m a monkey!”     
From the small stage: Play With Fire. Acoustic, but the effect on the crowd of this old vintage song was electric. Sweet Virginia. The crowd sings along.      
Mick never wore a Bears jersey. The Stones site is selling one with the tongue logo on a Bears helmet. I learned later that Mick did mention the missed field goal in last year’s tragic playoff loss to the Eagles. While standing on the small stage he asked, “It was right around here, right?” (The small stage is near the fifty yard line, almost the exact spot where the kick was attempted.     
The Keith segment: People do use it as a break. They missed a great version of Slipping Away. Walk Before They Make Me Run! Two shows in a row!
The snafu. I heard Mick playing harmonica which signals the start of Midnight Rambler. Keith started the churning introduction to the Blues epic. After about a minute there was a pause. It turns out they should have been playing Paint It Black. Keith held his arms out and took the blame. Everyone laughed. They started the song over. This time they played Paint It Black. Maybe only the Stones can get away with this.
Mick said, “I guess you know what’s next.” He talked about the nearby Chess recording studios. Then they played one of the best versions of Midnight Rambler that I have heard live. Mick channeled Robert Johnson a bit by singing a few lines of “Come On In My Kitchen.”
Midnight Rambler led into the “old warhorse” songs that would end the show. Start Me Up. Brown Sugar. Gimme Shelter. Satisfaction. It was a party atmosphere, but there was the elephant in the room. Would this be the last Stones show ever in Chicago?   
Thanks to family and friends who made this tour stop possible for me!