Europe 2018 Delphi

Tomorrow would be another big tour: Delphi! I wanted to go somewhere close to the hotel. Saw a sign: Roof Garden. It was the place I could see from my room. There was a large screen that showed silent movies. I ordered a glass of wine. The waiter brought it out with a plate of tapas. Olives, bread, cheese. I had just had the lamb, but what the heck. When in Athens... I watched a couple of Charlie Chaplin shorts. In one he was in the trenches of World War I.   

The last tour. One I was really anticipating. The Delphi Full Day Tour. The sky was overcast with threatening clouds. There was a bit of a drizzle while waiting for the bus. The morning traffic was a bit tough and it took the bus a while to get out of the Athens area. It was an interesting look at Greece outside the tourist zone. 

Our guide was Mariana.  A real sweetheart. We would be on the bus for about two and a half hours, with a short break in Livadeia. She gave us a great running commentary on the places we were passing while in the bus, and many fun facts on the geography and history of Greece. We would not be taking the exact route that pilgrims used, but it would be close. She talked about the agriculture of the province of Boeotia as we passed through. She pointed out the road to Thebes where Oedipus had run into his father.  

We got our first look at Mount Parnassus. The top was shrouded in the clouds. We made a pit stop at a modern domed facility that looked designed for tourist rest stops. Levadeia. I had a great Baklava. The clouds still looked threatening. “Of course we can’t guarantee weather conditions at the archaeological site.”

We were headed up into the mountains. The scenery was getting more dramatic.  There was a view of Corinthian Bay and the Ionian Sea in the distance.

Passed through the mountain town of Arachova. It’s a resort town for nearby winter sports on Mount Parnassus. It’s famous for its carpets and wool. 

In Arachova we got into a medieval traffic jam. The streets are small. We were behind what Mariana said was probably a funeral procession. Someone “going to their last residence on earth.” It was a similar situation to the tight spots on Ireland’s roads. Our bus faced another tour bus. There was no confrontation. No yelling, swearing. Each driver backed up so each bus could squeeze past on the narrow street. It did take some cooperation and time. When we started rolling again our driver Socrates got a round of applause.  

Delphi was “the center of the ancient world.” It was the home of the fabled Oracle of Delphi. A mountain pass made it a crucial spot for trade, but it took on even more importance as a spiritual center. This was a sacred place even before the Greeks.

We kept winding up the mountains surrounded by spectacular green scenery. Mariana said that not only the area is protected, the view is protected. There are no power lines or industrial development. Bauxite for aluminum is mined here. It is done totally underground.

We left the bus and entered the site. A stone path went up the hill. Mariana pointed out the ravine formed by “The Phaedriades.” This gap had made the area the center of a crucial trade route. It’s easy to see why the Oracle was here.     

Marinana explained that the pilgrimage was a big investment for the people of ancient times. There was lost time and income. Many had to borrow money to make the trek. Here at the Agora pilgrims could buy “what we would call souvenirs” to thank their sponsors. There were also souvenirs to prove that you had completed the pilgrimage. The walls dividing the shop stalls are still visible. 

Delphi was the center of the universe. It was the “Omphalos,” the navel of the earth. The business model is pretty much the same. The Acropolis, Delphi and other sites draw people from around the world. Now they’re called tourists, but they have to be fed and lodged. An industry grows around it. The tourist dollar rules now. It’s easier to travel, but it’s still a bit of a pilgrimage to get to a place that is as revered as Delphi.   

 

We came to The Polygonal Wall. Mariana said it was one of the first structures excavated at Delphi. It was covered with inscriptions. Hundreds of them. We passed several more “Treasuries.” The Treasury of the Athenians. The Treasury of the Boeotians. The Treasury of the Thebans. Treasure and gifts poured into Delphi from all Greece. The gods had to be thanked or appeased. Some of the Treasuries look pretty good considering how ancient they are. Their facade and columns are still intact. 

Mariana pointed out a rock that was covered in brush and dried roots. It looked unusual, like a large overturned tree stump. I would have noticed it, but would have walked right past it without knowing what it was. It was the Sibyl rock. Legend says this is where the original Oracle answered questions. It’s great to have a tour guide. 

Mariana says that the scientists and archaeologists don’t have all the answers. The room where the Oracle sat has not been found. Excavations continue.

We come to the columns of the Athenian stoa. Plunder from the Persians was offered  to the gods here to thank them for the victory. 

We went up the Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo. This was the goal of pilgrims for centuries. It was hard to imagine what it must have been like for the fervent pilgrims reaching the end of their journeys. Delphi definitely has an aura of its own. The ruins seem to take on a life of their own.

Mariana talked about the Oracle. She was always selected from the “normal” part of the local population. She wasn’t a priestess. The answers she gave were usually vague. Then it was up to the priests of the temple to interpret what they really meant.  

We had some free time to wander. I went a little farther up the hill. I would have spent more time here, but I did want to make sure I got a look at The Delphi Archaeological Museum. The small museum displays objects of great archaeological importance. Like the Acropolis artifacts have been moved into the museum for their protection and safe keeping. 

Original friezes have been moved indoors. Each room has at least one large, stunning statue. The Kouroi of Delphi. Statue of a Bull. The Sphinx of the Naxians. The facades of the Temple of Apollo. The ancient statues of humans are amazingly lifelike. The last room displays The Bronze Charioteer, on of the most famous and best preserved statues of antiquity.   

Even Delphi fell out of favor. Greece is plagued by earthquakes. Over the centuries Delphi was shaken by them. Other trade routes had been found. Religion changed. It had a rebirth under the Romans. It’s hard to believe, but Delphi was forgotten and buried. There were a few visitors who knew it was the site of the Oracle, including Lord Byron. Some drawings were made of buildings at the site.   

Delphi was “rediscovered” in the early Nineteenth Century. Over the years a village had grown on top of the buried ruins. The village was “relocated” after an earthquake. Excavation started in the 1890s.

Delphi isn’t just another pile of ruins up in the mountains. It’s a part of the spectacular surroundings. Delphi is not only a sacred spot, but the whole area is holy ground. 

We meet the bus outside the museum. We could see other ruins from the bus, including the Tholos. Mariana says that the wind creates waves in the many olive trees on the hillside. The trees have two colors. They are darker on the bottom and lighter on the top half. It’s usually windy and the wind and tree colors create wave effects. It’s part of the view from here. Mariana has the heart of a poet.  

We have lunch at Symposium. Everyone is blown away by Delphi and are very glad they took the tour. Lunch was another great fried chicken. We compared travel notes. “Where are you headed next?” On the way out I see a photo of a much younger Hilary Clinton posing with the owners.  

We stop at Arachova on the way back. We had thirty minutes of “free time.” A shop owner, John, greets everyone getting off the bus. Arachova is famous for rugs and carpets. It’s also famous for the view and the bell tower. 

I heard the shop owner John: “We’ll split the difference!”  

I was walking back to the bus. A large rainbow arced over the mountains and the road back to Athens. One of the largest I’ve ever seen. Really spectacular. Mariana said that, “We didn’t get the rain, but we still got the rainbow!”    

It was a long bus ride home. My epic trip was drawing to a close. I would fly the next day. Back to reality. It seemed like a long time ago that I had left San Francisco. Or Dublin. I had seen a lot. 

I was getting impatient. Wanted to get off the bus. My hotel would be at the last stop. I thought about getting off at Monastiraki, but I stayed on. I would get a look at a part of Athens that I hadn’t seen. We passed through some neighborhoods that looked pretty shaky. 

In one neighborhood there were fruit and vegetable stands set up in front of stores. It was getting dark. Maybe that added to the paranoia. I saw signs for Pakistani businesses. Maybe it wasn’t as dangerous as it looked, but I wondered what would happen if I went strolling through this part of town with my Rick Steves bag in tow. There were stone buildings that looked abandoned with boarded up windows. Some of them had impressive facades,. They had seen better days. Maybe it wasn’t as bad as it looked. There was always the graffiti.  

We were near Syntagma Square and The Parliament Building. The bus stopped. We would not be able to go any further because there was a demonstration. At least I knew where I was. I headed towards the hotel and turned a corner. I had walked right into some riot police. They had their game faces on. They were putting on helmets and adjusting equipment. Most of them had large riot shields and batons. These guys looked serious.  

I went another block and looked down Mitropoleos Street. My hotel was close. There were about a thousand demonstrators marching up the street. Right between me and my hotel. Might as well just watch the demonstration. There was definitely some hostility in the air. They were chanting and some demonstrators carried iron rods that they pounded on things as they marched up the street. They weren’t smashing everything in sight, but the menacing sound created tension. I pulled out my iPhone and started shooting video. I couldn’t see, but it sounded like they were attacking an ATM. There was a crash and then some cheers.

A young guy standing behind me yelled, “You can’t film this!” I put the iPhone down. “It’s for your protection, man. You can’t film this!” I felt foolish and I certainly wasn’t going to argue with him. I realized he was doing me a big favor and thanked him. Efharistoh! 

I was quickly losing my curiosity. It was a good time to go around the block and avoid most of the demonstration. Somehow I wound up on a street that was not Metropoleos. I wandered a bit and entered the now familiar Cathedral Plaza, which wasn’t far from the hotel. The demonstration was long gone. Syntagma Square is where most big demonstrations wind up. That’s where the action was.

Took a short break at the Pan Hotel. I wanted to get a last look at the Acropolis lit up at night. Wasn’t that hungry, but I did have some great fried calamarI. 

Tomorrow I would be flying back.

Europe 2018. Athens. Acropolis

My second ferry ride in Greece, so I knew the drill a little better. There was the spectacle of vehicles being loaded onboard. The setup inside the ship was a little different than the first ferry. I was riding economy. There were tables set out like a cafeteria. There were tables with a view. I got there early enough to set up next to a window. It was a little confusing. There would be stops in Paros and Syros, and then we would land in Piraeus, the last stop. Then “you can take a bus to Athens.” I didn’t like the uncertainty of that last leg.  

Three people settled in at the table next to me. A young woman and a slightly older couple. Probably in their late twenties. Two older women sat across from me. Another older guy with a fisherman’s cap joined. Except for the first three I don’t think the others knew each other. It looked like there was even a little hostility at first. It was getting harder to find an empty seat.  

As the voyage progressed they started talking. Something was very humorous and they started laughing. The woman across from me didn’t laugh much, but every once in a while she would make a short comment that put the rest of them in hysterics. A couple of them laughed so hard they were crying. This went on for most of the five hour ferry ride. I just wanted to know what one of the jokes was. Even if it was me.  

I was able to get up and walk around the ferry. Quite a scene. There was a covered area on deck with tables. People played cards or just hung out, enjoying the ride and the scenery. The ferry went along the coast. There were always great coastal views. Not a bad way to travel. 

The stops gave us a great view of the port towns of Paros and Syros. Small whitewashed towns on the water. I had to wonder about just getting off and checking them out. This looked like the real deal. Not as much tourism. Was tis the “real” Greece?   

I joined the flow of passengers getting off at Piraeus. I had to figure out where the bus station was. Everyone was standing in the hold waiting for the huge ramp to come down. It froze about half way down. This crazy alarm music played. It sounded like demented children’s music. Worse than “It’s a Small World After All” at Disneyland. There was definite tension as everyone waited. It was probably only about five minutes, but the alarm music didn’t help. The ramp finally came down and everyone rushed out. 

Taxi drivers were hustling the crowd as we got off. I showed one the address of my hotel. He thought it over and said, “55 Euro.” Tempting, but I would at least try the bus. If I had to, I could always find a cab for that price.  

I’m not much for following the herd, but I assumed most of this crowd was headed to Athens. I followed the crowd into a station. It was the train. I went to a counter and got a ticket. There were fare machines, but I wanted to buy a ticket from a human, ask questions and be sure. “Athens is the seventh stop.” It was less than two Euros.  

it was a crowded train car and I really had the radar on after the Barcelona incident. I had read repeated warnings that trains and busses drew pickpockets. A guy in the train car starting ranting and raving in Greek. (Hey, just like home!) Was he the distraction? He sure sounded mental. He barged his way through the crowded car. Smelled horrid. At least he got off at the next stop. Still ranting and raving about some injustice. 

The seventh stop was “Monastiraki” I knew the Pan Hotel was in this area. I got off the train and asked a hot redheaded police officer where Mitropoleos Street was. She pointed across the plaza. Now all I had to do was find No. 11. I had survived the Greek Metro and saved 55 Euros. 

Once again I had somehow managed to be on the streets during rush hour. It was Monday night. Some people were commuting and looked serious, but many were hanging out in the plaza. There was a small Byzantine church near the station. Waiters stood outside restaurants and tried to draw people in. One guy worked me. I shrugged and he saw I still had my bag. “Welcome to Athens!” 

The Pan Hotel was OK and would serve my purposes. I walked around Athens a little. The city was still buzzing. I walked back to the plaza and was excited to get my first look at the lit up Parthenon. I’ll be going up there. The Cathedral was on the same street as my hotel. 

My travel agent had said, “Athens can be dodgy.” There seemed to be more street scum around. There were the usual vendors selling the neon toy that shoots up into the sky. There were very friendly Jamaicans greeting people. “Where are you from?!” They didn’t appear to be selling anything. I wondered what their scam was, but didn’t really want to know.    

The next day was a walking tour that would end at The Acropolis. Victor took us to the Parliament Building where we watched the strange Changing of the Guard. We went through the National Gardens, which were a pleasant surprise. It was very similar to the Arboretum in Golden Gate Park. We walked by The Zappeion Hall. (“It has nothing to do with Frank Zappa.”) 

Victor admitted he had had a long night which had included Tango dancing. He was still very enthusiastic and told great stories about the mythology and history of Greece. There were only seven people on this tour.

We went on a street that bordered the gardens and passed the President’s Palace and other government mansions. It reminded me of Pacific Heights. Victor said that the President, “Has very little power.” We crossed a main street, the Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou and saw the Panathenaic Stadium. The stadium where the modern Olympics began in 1892! A thrill to see where it all started. It’s been modernized and they have concerts and other events. The Scorpions played there last week! 

Victor mentioned that apartments in the center of the city are cheaper than the ones on the outskirts. The opposite of what usually happens. He also said that apartments could be bought for ten to fifteen thousand Euro. We stopped him right there. The tour group was four Americans and two Canadians. We were all very curious about this: “Ten to fifteen thousand to own?” Right. “And then you own it?” Right, like a condo. “Are there restrictions on foreigners buying property?” No! 

We found this one hard to believe, but there are areas of Athens that look pretty shaky, and there is the volatile political situation. Still, ten to fifteen thousand to own an apartment anywhere sounded unreal to us.

We walked up the street to the Temple of Zeus. Victor found a break in the bushes and we stepped in behind a fence where there was a great view of the temple. Very little of it is left standing, but the remaining pillars are impressive. Victor pointed out one of the columns that had collapsed. The columns have an iron rod that runs down the middle and keeps the separate pieces together. This attracted lightning during a storm. Even the toppled pieces of the pillar are grand. This building must have been huge. I saw it later at night, and it is spectacular when lit up at night.   

Hadrian’s Arch is across the street. It looks like a fragile relic from the ancient world, but somehow it fits into the commute bustle of Athens. It’s near a turnaround hub of daily commute traffic.  

We crossed the main street (Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou ) again, and Victor took us through the Plaka, the oldest part of Athens. We saw some ruins that were about ten feet below street level. This was the original street level. There are still many ancient ruins all over Athens that are undiscovered.   

There was a small square with a monument. The Lysicrates square and monument. The monument was circular and classic. There had been a Capuchin monastery here. Lord Byron had stayed there. “He is a hero to the Greek people.” The monastery had become “a center for resistance” during the War for Independence. The Turks destroyed the monastery, but, “They didn’t destroy the monument.”  

We came out of the Plaka and started walking up a modern road, the Dionysiou Areopagitou. We kept drawing closer to the Acropolis. It doesn’t exactly sneak up on you. There was an entrance to the Acropolis with a very long line. We would keep walking and go to an entrance on the other side. Victor pointed out the very modern looking Acropolis Museum. We walked around the base of the hill. Victor said we were walking where Plato and Aristotle had walked and taught. 

He wanted us to se the Areopagus. We came to a bluff that was covered in rocky stone. “St. Paul preached to large crowds here.” There was a stairway to the top. On the top the wind was fierce. I took a short video and had a hard time standing. At one point another member of the tour group had to grab me so I could catch my balance! There was an awesome view of Athens from here. 

The walking tour ended at the queue to go into the Acropolis. This was a bit odd. I thought we would get a Skip the Line ticket with the tour. I knew there would be an extra charge, but that would have been OK with me. There was a wait to buy tickets. I always get a little hyper before seeing iconic World Heritage sites. At least the line was shorter on this side. 

It’s always a little surreal to go to the “Big” sites. The Eiffel Tower. St. Peter’s. The Alhambra. The Alcazar. I couldn’t believe the Grand Canyon when I first saw it. It’s hard to believe it’s there. Or that I’m there. This was it. This was a big one.

The area that led up to the Acropolis had ruins and some statues. I was surprised to see a modern stage inside the ancient Herodes Theatre. “Sting just played here!” There was a sound board set up about half way up the stone seats. The acoustics were unbelievable. An open microphone picked up the sounds the stagehands made when they walked around the stage.  

 

Stone steps led us up to the top of the hill, and we entered under large stone portals. The steps were packed with people going up and down. You had to be careful to navigate the ancient stone steps. When I got to the top the crowd thinned out as people spread out to wander around.   

At the top it was very windy. Swirls of dust blew around. Much of The Parthenon was covered in scaffolding. Renovation continues. I wandered around and saw the remains of the temples and buildings. Many buildings are familiar. The caryatids on the Erechtheion. It was hard to believe I was up here. Another unreal, amazing experience. I kept wandering around. Didn’t want to leave.

There was a great view of the Theatre of Dionysus below. It’s the theater “where it all began.” Where theater started. I get a closer look on my way out.  

The Acropolis is still an active archaeological site. There is a small gauge railroad system up there to lug dirt and antiquities around.

It was crowded, but I think I got a break because it was later in the season. I overheard someone say, “It’s usually worse.” Guards watched for people who got too enthusiastic and climbed on the ruins for photo opportunities. Once in a while you’d hear a whistle and an admonishment. I saw one guy retrieving his hat from a clearly marked restricted zone. He got his hat and a scolding from one of the guards. It has to be a weird job.

I started making my way down. There were still large artifacts and ruins all around. I heard music. It was coming from the Herodes Theatre. They were doing some kind of sound check. It was a Leonard Cohen song: “Dance Me to the End of Love.” The bittersweet song was perfect. An emotional, stirring moment. People stood at the top behind the fence and listened. I took a little video. They played some of “Hallelujah” before the sound crew went on to other tasks. It’s probably a good thing they didn’t play a Stones song. I think my head would have exploded.     

The Acropolis Museum is modern and displays many original works that can’t be left to the elements anymore. Just amazing. There was a great short film on the history of the Acropolis and another one on the controversial “Elgin Marbles.” When it was renovated a buried village was discovered. Presented a bit of a problem. The village is covered by glass that you can walk over. You can see the ruins below.  

Left the Acropolis and walked down small streets with stone steps that led down towards Monastiraki. There were old, small buildings that looked like private residences, but who knows in this age of B&Bs. At the lower levels the walls were completely covered in graffiti. Most of it was artfully done. It seemed to be a haven for radical art and anarchy. Graffiti was everywhere in Athens, and most of it was not so artistic. Athens did have some edge to it.

Found a restaurant with a view of the Lysicrates Monument and Square. There was something about it. It was early and there were only two other people in the place. I wanted lamb. Got lamb souvlaki. The waiters eyed me with a little suspicion. Have to admit I was looking a bit ragged by this point. Even for me. My hair was longer than it had been in years.  My pants were covered in smeared sunscreen and dust. So were my shoes. But it was dust from the Acropolis!   

The Cathedral of Athens was still open. It’s relatively new, but I was glad to get inside for a look. Next to it is the “Little Metropolis.” I had been drawn to the miniaturized cathedral last night when the big one was closed. There’s a nice plaza around it that is more laid back than the other nearby public squares.

Europe 2018 Short Version 2

Been going over photos and notes I took. I’ll be buzzing about this trip for a long time. Leaving out many fun facts and stories. I’m trying to make this the short version.  

Flew from Barcelona to Rome. Connected to Santorini. At the airport in Santorini I got the bad news. My luggage had been “delayed.” Great. Never happened to me before. The baggage guy said I had to go to “the office. Last window on the left.” They didn’t even have the airline’s name there. (Vueling, a Spanish airline.) Their attitude was unbelievable. There were about six people in the same boat. As I arrived an American woman was yelling. A guy immediately said, “I’m getting the police!” She didn’t look very threatening, but this guy wasn’t taking any chances. 

Maybe it was a language thing. Certainly a cultural thing. They acted like it was my fault. A young woman behind a glass enclosed counter asked me, “What do you want to do?” I kept my cool. Uh. Get my luggage? “You have to fill out a form!” OK. “Don’t worry. Your luggage has been delayed. It will be delivered to your hotel tomorrow.” That sounded good. 

Small airport. They have “ambassadors” there who wander in yellow vests and answer questions. A nice touch. I asked one, “How much for a taxi to this hotel?” “It depends on the driver.” I looked at the taxi stand. The drivers didn’t look too friendly. “Take the bus,” the ambassador said, “It’s two Euro.” After a short wait I rode the bus into Santorini. 

The area around the airport looked kind of Third World. Trash was piled up in abandoned construction sites. Eventually we went by the beaches and the beauty of Santorini started to show. I got off the bus and went up what I thought was the main street. I knew the Hotel Kykladonisia was going to be hard to find. On one of the tours someone had commented, “In Santorini, only the locals know where something is.” (I learned later that there are no addresses, no street numbers in Santorini!)   

I went into a store and showed a woman the address to the Kykladonisia “Traditional Settlement.” She made a call on her phone and handed it to me. I talked to Pablus. “Do you see the Thirassia Hotel?” It was right up the street. “I’ll meet you there.” This was almost too good to be true. Pablus told me, “I knew you’d never find it.” The Kykladonisia was up winding medieval stone steps. He was right. I don’t know how I would have found it. 

On the way up the famous Santorini donkeys went past us. I’m used to scrawny, starving looking mules. These were big, strong animals. There are areas in Santorini where they are the only form of transport. 

Not much to unpack. I went out in search of Gyros. Now I was on the main street. Learned that in Greece gyros is either chicken or pork. “Greeks don’t eat lamb gyros.” The owner of the restaurant worked the passing pedestrians. He knew how to greet most of them in their own language. It was a bit of a show. 

Surprised at how much tourist action there was. Went into the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral. Behind it the street winds up around the caldera. Awesome views of the water below. Cruise ships. Many restaurants. At the end of the street was an area of high riding jewelry boutiques.A lot of people were out on a Tuesday night. 

Next day I went on the “Sunset in Oia and Traditional Villages” tour. Our guide was Demetrius. First stop was Mesa Gonia, “the ghost village.” An earthquake in 1956 destroyed most of the village. It struck early in the morning and most of the people were already working in the fields. (A bad day to call in sick.) Most of the buildings are ruins. Kind of weird. There has been some rebuilding. Demetrius told us the new homes are among the most expensive in Greece now! 

Pyrgos. Village that winds up a hill. Famous photo ops of blue domed churches looking over the bay. The Venetian Castle there was a refuge from pirates, including Barbarossa!  

Tour ended in Oia. We went up to the main plaza, and then would have free time to wander. “Bus leaves at 8:00!” 

Most people headed to an area up on the hill. Famous for blue dome churches and photo op of sunset. I took a look. Amazing how many people were going that way. I headed down the streets and away from the crush. I found a spot near the beach with a great view of the famous sunset.    

The Kykladonisia was pretty basic, but it did have its own charm. A]Ther was a little area with a view of the water. The problem was the luggage fiasco. They had not delivered the bag because I wasn’t there. WTF? For whatever reason they wouldn’t bring it down the stone stairs to the hotel. 

I called “Gold Air Handling.” It was obviously a call center. Probably in India. “There was a miscommunication.” The bag might be delivered tomorrow, but the guy was sure to say, “There is no guarantee.”

So, I’m supposed to sit in the hotel all day and MAYBE the bag will show up. Probably would have just hung out, but I had the “See Santorini in one day with King Thira” tour the next day. The show must go on!

I bought shirts and a hat. The travel insurance is supposed to cover some incidentals “after twenty four hours.”

Met at Old Fira Medical Centre. Always a bit of tension finding the contact.  

The guide was Tania. A real piece of work with her own entertaining style. Tania looked in her fifties. “You will all be my little children today.” She estimates she’s met 250,000 people in her fourteen years as a tour guide!   

First stop was the Elias Monastery. Just a stop for the view really. “Highest point of the island.” Others on the tour noticed I wasn’t taking pictures. (I couldn’t charge the phone and was avoiding taking pictures.) I told them my sad “delayed luggage” story. A woman e-mailed me her pictures from the tour. Very thoughtful. Travelers do stick together! We hung out for a while enjoying the view. Tania took pictures. “I love honeymooners!” “Last one on the bus has to kiss me as a punishment!” 

Tania had great stories. She told us about the theory that Santorini was the site of Plato’s Atlantis. She wasn’t all comedy. She talked about appearing in National Geographic twenty years ago, “When I was young and beautiful.”   

We boarded the Thiria, a “traditional Greek boat.” We went to Pyrgos again. A bit of a surprise. Didn’t mind visiting the Byzantine churches and the village again.

Tania is a real character. Everyone knew her in town, especially the shopkeepers. They all call her Caballo. We got back on the boat and went to the volcanic island. “This island has no name.” Strange hike to the crater. Didn’t look very active. The real attraction is the view of the rest of the caldera. Tania talked about the geology of the area. Very knowledgeable. 

There was a stream of tourist groups headed up to the crater. It looked like it took some doing for our guide to keep the group together. “Right here! The most romantic tour group in the universe! Meet right here!” 

We sailed by Hot Springs with “green sulphur waters.” Then we stopped at Thirassia Island. We could walk up the “winding steps” to Manalos, but I opted to stay by the water and eat at one of the local restaurants. Sea food moussaka. Grilled  calamari and octopus. 

Thirassia looked a little worn down. There were abandoned cottages near the water. Some of the cottages that looked inhabited used a string of barbed wire to keep people off their steps. The wind mills make the town look ancient.   

The tour was going to go on to Oia, but I had a choice of going back to Fira town. I had seen the famous sunset last night, and didn’t want to deal with the crowds in Oia. And I wanted to check on the luggage situation.  

Was the luggage there? No. Now I’m getting aggravated. I call and the situation just gets more bizarre. Byzantine. I can’t use the Kykladonisia phone because it’s an international call. (“My boss won’t let me.”) Pablus explains that they won’t call my cell phone because it’s an international number. I call “Gold Air Handling” again. My phone is running low and the charger is in my luggage. He says my luggage should be delivered tomorrow, but he’s careful to mention, “There is no guarantee.” He says if it doesn’t arrive tomorrow they will ship the bag to Mykonos. (How are they NOT going to screw that up?) My phone runs out while I’m talking to him. 

I get the phone recharged at a Vodaphone shop in Fira. No charge and the young lady won’t even take a tip!  

I almost go to the airport to pick up the luggage. I call first. Good thing. The luggage isn’t there. It’s at some Gold Air Handling warehouse waiting to (maybe) be delivered to me. 

  The next morning. Decision time. I could stay one more night and hang out at the hotel to try and get the luggage. It means I’ll miss “The South Coast Cruise” on Mykonos. I wouldn’t mind another day in Santorini, but I figure screw it. Just keep going! Even if the luggage doesn’t arrive. I’ll buy some essentials. I have a hunch I should just get to Mykonos and stay on track. 

“Gold Air Handling” calls me on the Kykladonisia phone. (Saving the international charge.) The luggage is at the airport. I’m leaving anyway, so I take the bus there and get my precious Rick Steves bag back. A woman at the counter is apologetic. I’ve got my luggage, so I don’t want to make a scene, but I do calmly let her know, “This has not been good.” She seems surprised.  

I cab it to the ferry and get a ticket to Mykonos. The ferries are huge. They look like cruise ships. Not sure how many they hold, but a lot of people boarded. Before they let us board they load scooters, motorcycles, cars, boats and even semi-trucks! Quite a sight. I was there early and went to “Business Class.” Really I was just looking for directions. I wasn’t sure where to go and knew the guy would stop me.

People stored their luggage in an area downstairs, but I wasn’t going for that! I carried the bag upstairs and there were places for carry ons. I took a seat in a back row where I could go out on the deck and still keep an eye on the bag. Paranoia runs deep... 

A pleasant voyage. A bit windy, but great to stand on the deck and watch the coast go by. Spectacular coast views.   

The ferry makes two stops and I get a look at two little port towns. Ios and Pyros. They look very cool. I’m doing a lot of big city, urban stuff on this trip. I wondered what it would be like to hang out in one of these towns for a while. At each stop vehicles and passengers disembark and a new load of people and vehicles comes aboard. A bit of a spectacle in itself. 

When we get to Mykonos people start lining up to get off the ferry. It is the last stop. I’m tempted to just hang back and let the crowd go, but I do join the herd. When the ramp goes down the first people run like crazy down the ramp. I did wonder what the rush was. Most were racing to cabs. I just missed getting one. (In Spain there was an army of taxis at every airport, train or bus station.) There were no cabs in sight and a long queue forming. 

It was still early and I was in no rush anyway. We were in the new port and the town of Mykonos was a couple of miles away. Some people started walking. I spotted a “Sea Bus.” For two Euro it would take me to the town. I knew the hotel was two miles from the town of Mykonos, so I got aboard. It was some kind of converted tour boat with a glass bottom. Sure beat walking with the luggage. 

Mykonos was more like the port towns I saw on the ferry over. It sure had a different pace, even from Santorini. I stopped at a cafe. Some young people were singing Greek songs at a statue in the nearby plaza. Idyllic.

I was going to get a taxi to the hotel. I found the Taxi Stand. I saw a cab and asked the driver if he wanted a fare. “You have to download the app! It’s like Uber!” My God. Even here? I called a number on the stand’s sign and got an analog taxi. 

  

My next hotel was the Mykonos Kosmoplaz. Pictures online made it look like a resort. When I walked in the guy behind the desk greeted me, “Mr. O’Shea, welcome to the Kosmoplaz!” I hadn’t said a word. It probably didn’t take a genius to figure out what reservation hadn’t shown up yet, but these guys, Manos and Dmitris, were sharp. And had a sense of humor. They also had great advice on the area. “If you go to restaurants here make sure you read the menu. (Check the price.) If you walk a little bit down the beach prices go down “for the same thing.” There was a pool! This was ideal after the luggage fiasco.  

The next day was the South Coast Cruise. The tours in Greece had “hotel pick up.” No more going to find the “departure point.” There was always a little tension on other tours finding the contact. Here it was easier for them to just send a van around and pick everyone up. 

Olivia was our tour guide. An attractive young woman from South Africa with a British accent. (“I learned how to speak English by watching Nickelodeon.”) We would board a “traditional Greek Kaiki style ship” and cruise by the beaches of Mykonos. I hadn’t expected much and was more excited about the archaeological tours coming up, but the South Coast Cruise turned out to be maybe the most fun I’ve had on a tour!

We sailed by Paradise Beach. “This is the beach Jackie O. made famous. You can get a bottle of wine for 80,000 Euro! If anyone is buying I’d love to have a glass.” It was still early, so no one was ready to buy an 80,000 Euro bottle.  

There were about thirty on the tour. I met a couple from Detroit and another from Chicago. Rod, from Chicago, asked Olivia about the stone walls on the hillside. (Very similar to those in Ireland.) They were meant as boundaries, but also kept livestock under control. (In Greece “livestock” is sheep and goats.) Why so many abandoned construction sites? Olivia explained: Some ran out of money. Some started building without permits.

Our first stop was a “natural beach,” Frangias. “There will be no sun beds or coffee stands. There will be nothing there.” We stopped and went for a swim. The water really was “crystal clear.” Olivia supplied wine and ouzo, “the drink of the gods!” There was bread and olives. People started to loosen up. 

Turns out Rod worked for Sears in Chicago for thirty years. 78. Knew all the best places on Rush Street. A salesman. He was entertaining. We had lunch in Kalafatis. I visited a nearby small fishing village and church. Coming back I ran into Rod sitting on a rock by the beach. We started gabbing and it struck me. I’m on a remote beach near a fishing village in Greece talking about Chicago night life from the Sixties.  

The next stop would be different. Paradise Beach. Sun beds. Waiters supplying drinks on the beach. The Tropicana Bar: “elected as one of the best beach bars worldwide.” 

I went for a swim. There were mossy rocks at the edge of the water and I slipped and wiped out while entering the water. Looked bad, but I landed in the water. Certainly more people at the beach. Water skis. Boats. Snorkeling. Rafts. Music from the nearby Tropicana. Much different from Frangias. Still a great beach. I can say I swam at Paradise Beach!  

The cruise back was a bit more raucous than when we started. Everybody was best friends now! (Dmitris back at the Kosmoplaz said, “It always works that way!”) A couple jumped up on the cabin and led us in “YMCA.” Much hilarity.

The next day was the tour of Delos. I was very excited about this tour. A ferry took us to the island. It was a thrill to see the marble columns from the boat. Delos was a powerful trade and spiritual center. Apollo was born here! We went for a great tour of the excavated city. There is a great little museum. 

Even while walking the streets and entering the ruins of ancient buildings it was hard to imagine what life had been like here. The tour was too short. I was surprised. (Most tours are too long.) Still a real thrill to be out there. I am trying to keep this “the short version” but plan a more lengthy post.  

I tended to hang out more near the Kosmoplaz in Platys Gialos. The beach was fantastic. It was a short walk from end to end, but there was a lot going on at night.  

There’s not much wildlife in Mykonos and Greece. On the cruise I noticed that there were some sea gulls, but really not that many considering how much coast we sailed by. (There are probably more at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco!) No seals. Only saw small, black fish and not many of those. 

But there were the swallows. At sunset they all roosted on a ridge above Platys Gialos. There was loud rustling up there as they settled down for the night. I tried to capture the sound on a video, but it didn’t really come through. 

So, it was goodbye to Mykonos and Platys Gialos, which had been a needed and refreshing surprise. Manos arranged a ride to the ferry. Dmitris said that if I was late, “You’ll have to stay here another month.”   

It was back to the big city: Athens. 

Europe 2018 Short Version 1

Got home Thursday, 9/27, about 9 pm. Long day in airports, flying, etc. The long flights are still a bit of an ordeal for me, but I seem to be getting more used to them. I stood in the back for a while. British Airways made it better, and they even had my luggage when I arrived! 

Another incredible trip as you’ve seen in some of the pictures. This trip did present more challenges and there was more traveling involved. I knew I was very lucky on the 2016 tour. There were few delays, etc. And I do travel “budget,” so it’s always “part of the deal.” The other side is that there were so many incredible sights and sites that sometimes it felt like a fantasy, almost a dream. So if I sound a little grouchy, speezy or even whiney, keep in mind that the trip was certainly worth it. There will be a lot of stories. I’m trying to make this a short version. I’ll post longer versions with too many details later. 

   

I dropped my luggage at the Harding Hotel and headed to my first stop. I had an open ticket for the Book of Kells and The Long Room. Guinness Storehouse was all right. The highlight is the bar with a 360 degree view and a free Guinness. 35 Euro seemed a bit steep, but they’re packing them in. My ticket was part of my package. Have to wonder if I would have bothered if I didn’t already have a ticket.  

The Craic was grand! My hotel was close to the Temple Bar area. Saw and heard a lot of “traditional” Irish music. Darkey Kelly’s (“Best Irish music pub - three years running!”) was right next to my hotel. Usually jammed. One highlight was a Rock and Roll power trio that set up outside the Mercantile pub near Grafton Street. The Blue Crows played rocking covers. AC/DC. Sweet Home Chicago! And a more than passable Hendrix tune. The guitar player was really good. 

Amazing to me how many people (mostly tourists) were out and about. One of the tour guides mentioned that it was “a slow weekend.” Last weekend was the All-Ireland Final and the Pope had just visited before that. So to them it was a quiet weekend!

The Celtic Boyne Valley tour was a mind blower. A stop at Trim Castle. Now famous for the movie Braveheart. Loughcrew has an ancient chamber tomb built before the pyramids. Ancient Celtic sites including The Hill of Tara with The Stone of Destiny. The site of the Battle of the Boyne! Places I’ve read about. I think I know a lot about the mythology and history but the tour guides are the experts and they really make it come alive. They all had a great sense of humor and were entertainers.

Tour guide Matt explained that the “fairy people” still get a lot of respect from the local people. We saw a “fairy tree.” It was covered in ribbons left for aid from the “fairy people.”  

We stopped at Uisneach, the “Mythological and Sacred Centre of Ireland.” A local guide, Simon, took us around and told great tales of mythology. It’s a working farm and we passed a herd of cows to The Catstone, Ail na Mireann. “The navel of Ireland.” This place had a unique mystique. They still have the Druid Fire Ceremony here once a year!   

The next day was the tour to the Wicklow Mountains. A great train ride along the coast. Tour of the wool mills of Avoca. The site of the Ballykissangel TV series. We had lunch in the pub featured in the show. A walk in Glendalough. Great natural scenery. Ended in very old cemetery and monastery grounds. 

Found some of the best stuff just wandering around in Dublin. The Ireland in WWI exhibit in “The Old Library.” Tragedy piled on tragedy. I went into the main library. Their main reading room is classic and awesome. (“No Photos.”) This is where James Joyce and Yeats worked, among others. There was an award winning exhibit on William Butler Yeats. I hit the Archaeological Museum, and later The National Gallery. Covered a lot of territory, including Dublin Castle. Outside the Castle is a small museum holding the collection of Chester Beatty, a rich industrialist. Being in Dublin seems like a long time ago to me.  

The flight from Dublin to Barcelona was delayed an hour. I would be getting a connecting flight to Granada. Then there was a “security problem” in Barcelona. We were on the tarmac for about an hour. No way I was going to make the connecting flight to Granada. There were others in my situation. They put us up at the Barcelona Hilton. Got there at 1:15 am. I chose a flight to Granada at 8 am. It was a bit stressful and cut into my Granada time.  

But I did get there. First night in Spain. Amazing. History everywhere. Walked up to the Alhambra area and found The Garden of the Martyrs. Great views of the city and surrounding area. Did the Alhambra tour the next day. Experience of a lifetime. Much more on that later. Had my first real Spanish tapas. Took a tram tour around the city.   

Took a bus from Granada to Seville. A bit of an adventure just getting the ticket. Medieval streets in Seville were hard to navigate. I’d go a block from the hotel and get lost. (I thought Venice was a maze!) Went to Belles Artes, a small but great art museum where I knew “The Apotheosis of St. Thomas Aquinas” was. The painting that was behind the altar at the church on the West Side where I grew up! Popped into some amazing local churches: Cappila de San Jose - Santa Maria Magdalena.

Murillo Hotel was great with a rooftop bar that had a view of the nearby lit up Cathedral. Which I also visited. Also had some great furnishing in the lobby including armor and weapons!   

Toured the Alcazar on my own. Just amazing and it was less than a half mile from my hotel. Didn’t realize how big it is. A look at how Moorish royalty lived. Spent more time here than I had expected. 

  

Train travel was great. (Why can’t the airlines be more like this? I know... money.) Was a bit surprised at how desolate the landscape was. From the train window it looked like there was nothing for miles. Impressive mountain scenery. Huge mesas.  

Madrid. A bit more urban. Right away I noticed people were a bit more gruff. Sick of tourists? Whatever. Went on a great Tapas Tour. The food unbelievable. Tour guide Daniella also talked about local history and had great stories about Madrid. Showed us ‘the oldest restaurant in the world”: Sobrino de Botin.  

Went to the Royal Palace, another real eye opener. How Spanish royalty lives. Great art. Huge frescoes on the ceilings. No photos allowed in most of the palace. Don’t want to disturb the inhabitants.  

Have to admit I was hitting the wall here a bit physically, especially feet and legs. Started to slow the pace a little bit. Took taxis more. They’re relatively cheap and I’d get exactly where I wanted to go without getting lost.   

Did a day tour out of Madrid to Toledo. “The spiritual center of Spain.” Another highlight. I am trying to keep this short. You’ll be hearing more later. Certainly another highlight, but there were so many highlights. There’s a synagogue there that they built in a Moorish style. Saw the El Greco painting “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz” which is displayed in the Church of Santo Tome. There is a zip line that you can ride over the Tagus River. I took a pass on that for now.   

On to Barcelona! Another great train trip. Heard so much about Barcelona, and it didn’t disappoint. Even more tourists here! And yes, I know I’m one of them. The taxi had to drop me across a plaza from my hotel. A group of Catalonians were camped out. They’re campaigning for independence from Spain. Small tents were set up. They sang folk songs. It looked like a peaceful gathering.  

Started with the Picasso Tour, which was also a walking tour through some of the streets of the Gothic Quarter. (Tours are a good way to get the lay of the land in a new city.) Saw “El Quartre Cats” where Picasso hung out. Tour ended with the Picasso museum. I later overheard people say they had a hard time getting in. Some said they gave up. But we waltzed past the line. “Skip the line” ticket! 

One of those amazing travel things. Joe Ragen and his wife, Cookie, were in Barcelona at the same time. (Stuber figured this out.) Had dinner at Sagrada. A Rick Steves recommendation. Great to see and compare notes with people I know. We had a fantastic meal. I took a break from seafood and had an oxtail dish. Ragen told  me about the art museum at Montserrat.  

A bit of drama. It was the latest I’d been out on the trip. After midnight. I was on the street my hotel was on, and there were other people still out. A young guy came up to me. Well dressed. “My friend!” I assumed he was a gypsy. I knew he wasn’t going to be my friend. He tried to put his arm around me. “Where are you from?” “Chicago,” I snarled, hoping this would discourage him. “Oh I know a polizei there! His name is Tony Rizzo!” I said, “Good night.” “Oh, Good night! Good night!” He was taunting me a bit. There were a couple of guys walking along with us. He got next to me, and somehow he got his hand in my pocket! 

I blocked his hand from my wallet and pushed him away. Then he was gone! It was like he disappeared. I kept checking my pockets. Wallet, cell phone. Everything still there. I almost couldn’t believe it. This guy was really slick. I knew I had dodged a bullet. It was unsettling, to say the least. I wore the dorky “safety wallet” belt thing for the duration. Certainly one of the most unpleasant experiences I’ve had traveling, but he didn’t get me. 

Next day I would tour the Sagrada Familia. There was more activity in the Catalonian camp. They marched down the street and sang more Catalonian folk songs, which were emotional and stirring. I have pictures and a short video. Took a taxi to Sagrada Familia. They’re way cheaper than San Francisco and made things simple. I caught a glimpse of Sagrada over neighboring buildings. It just seemed unreal. By chance I ran into Joe Ragen and Cookie again. It really is a small world. 
The tour went on to Park Guell, but I decided to stay and walk around inside the church more. Impossible to describe. It’s not finished yet! 

The next day was a tour to Montserrat. Reminded me of Yosemite, but more spectacular, if that’s possible. We took a short hike with incredible views. Montserrat has an almost bizarre Catholic history around it. Founded when a statue of the Blessed Virgin was discovered in a cave. Legend says it was made by St. Luke, the Evangelist.  Many more tales and legends. Was the site of fierce fighting during the Spanish Civil War. It was a very strategic spot. “Only road to Barcelona.” About twenty monks were martyred. UFO enthusiasts gather every month to watch for mysterious lights that have appeared in the sky. It’s that kind of place. 

So it wasn’t as “smooth” as the 2016 expedition, but I knew I was very lucky on that one. I did slow the pace a bit. I skipped a couple of tours that just didn’t fit my agenda at the time. I had learned from the first trip that you just can’t see “everything.” There are many more stories.  

Next stop will be Greece. My itinerary includes Delos, the Oracle at Delphi and the Acropolis. To be continued!