My second ferry ride in Greece, so I knew the drill a little better. There was the spectacle of vehicles being loaded onboard. The setup inside the ship was a little different than the first ferry. I was riding economy. There were tables set out like a cafeteria. There were tables with a view. I got there early enough to set up next to a window. It was a little confusing. There would be stops in Paros and Syros, and then we would land in Piraeus, the last stop. Then “you can take a bus to Athens.” I didn’t like the uncertainty of that last leg.
Three people settled in at the table next to me. A young woman and a slightly older couple. Probably in their late twenties. Two older women sat across from me. Another older guy with a fisherman’s cap joined. Except for the first three I don’t think the others knew each other. It looked like there was even a little hostility at first. It was getting harder to find an empty seat.
As the voyage progressed they started talking. Something was very humorous and they started laughing. The woman across from me didn’t laugh much, but every once in a while she would make a short comment that put the rest of them in hysterics. A couple of them laughed so hard they were crying. This went on for most of the five hour ferry ride. I just wanted to know what one of the jokes was. Even if it was me.
I was able to get up and walk around the ferry. Quite a scene. There was a covered area on deck with tables. People played cards or just hung out, enjoying the ride and the scenery. The ferry went along the coast. There were always great coastal views. Not a bad way to travel.
The stops gave us a great view of the port towns of Paros and Syros. Small whitewashed towns on the water. I had to wonder about just getting off and checking them out. This looked like the real deal. Not as much tourism. Was tis the “real” Greece?
I joined the flow of passengers getting off at Piraeus. I had to figure out where the bus station was. Everyone was standing in the hold waiting for the huge ramp to come down. It froze about half way down. This crazy alarm music played. It sounded like demented children’s music. Worse than “It’s a Small World After All” at Disneyland. There was definite tension as everyone waited. It was probably only about five minutes, but the alarm music didn’t help. The ramp finally came down and everyone rushed out.
Taxi drivers were hustling the crowd as we got off. I showed one the address of my hotel. He thought it over and said, “55 Euro.” Tempting, but I would at least try the bus. If I had to, I could always find a cab for that price.
I’m not much for following the herd, but I assumed most of this crowd was headed to Athens. I followed the crowd into a station. It was the train. I went to a counter and got a ticket. There were fare machines, but I wanted to buy a ticket from a human, ask questions and be sure. “Athens is the seventh stop.” It was less than two Euros.
it was a crowded train car and I really had the radar on after the Barcelona incident. I had read repeated warnings that trains and busses drew pickpockets. A guy in the train car starting ranting and raving in Greek. (Hey, just like home!) Was he the distraction? He sure sounded mental. He barged his way through the crowded car. Smelled horrid. At least he got off at the next stop. Still ranting and raving about some injustice.
The seventh stop was “Monastiraki” I knew the Pan Hotel was in this area. I got off the train and asked a hot redheaded police officer where Mitropoleos Street was. She pointed across the plaza. Now all I had to do was find No. 11. I had survived the Greek Metro and saved 55 Euros.
Once again I had somehow managed to be on the streets during rush hour. It was Monday night. Some people were commuting and looked serious, but many were hanging out in the plaza. There was a small Byzantine church near the station. Waiters stood outside restaurants and tried to draw people in. One guy worked me. I shrugged and he saw I still had my bag. “Welcome to Athens!”
The Pan Hotel was OK and would serve my purposes. I walked around Athens a little. The city was still buzzing. I walked back to the plaza and was excited to get my first look at the lit up Parthenon. I’ll be going up there. The Cathedral was on the same street as my hotel.
My travel agent had said, “Athens can be dodgy.” There seemed to be more street scum around. There were the usual vendors selling the neon toy that shoots up into the sky. There were very friendly Jamaicans greeting people. “Where are you from?!” They didn’t appear to be selling anything. I wondered what their scam was, but didn’t really want to know.
The next day was a walking tour that would end at The Acropolis. Victor took us to the Parliament Building where we watched the strange Changing of the Guard. We went through the National Gardens, which were a pleasant surprise. It was very similar to the Arboretum in Golden Gate Park. We walked by The Zappeion Hall. (“It has nothing to do with Frank Zappa.”)
Victor admitted he had had a long night which had included Tango dancing. He was still very enthusiastic and told great stories about the mythology and history of Greece. There were only seven people on this tour.
We went on a street that bordered the gardens and passed the President’s Palace and other government mansions. It reminded me of Pacific Heights. Victor said that the President, “Has very little power.” We crossed a main street, the Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou and saw the Panathenaic Stadium. The stadium where the modern Olympics began in 1892! A thrill to see where it all started. It’s been modernized and they have concerts and other events. The Scorpions played there last week!
Victor mentioned that apartments in the center of the city are cheaper than the ones on the outskirts. The opposite of what usually happens. He also said that apartments could be bought for ten to fifteen thousand Euro. We stopped him right there. The tour group was four Americans and two Canadians. We were all very curious about this: “Ten to fifteen thousand to own?” Right. “And then you own it?” Right, like a condo. “Are there restrictions on foreigners buying property?” No!
We found this one hard to believe, but there are areas of Athens that look pretty shaky, and there is the volatile political situation. Still, ten to fifteen thousand to own an apartment anywhere sounded unreal to us.
We walked up the street to the Temple of Zeus. Victor found a break in the bushes and we stepped in behind a fence where there was a great view of the temple. Very little of it is left standing, but the remaining pillars are impressive. Victor pointed out one of the columns that had collapsed. The columns have an iron rod that runs down the middle and keeps the separate pieces together. This attracted lightning during a storm. Even the toppled pieces of the pillar are grand. This building must have been huge. I saw it later at night, and it is spectacular when lit up at night.
Hadrian’s Arch is across the street. It looks like a fragile relic from the ancient world, but somehow it fits into the commute bustle of Athens. It’s near a turnaround hub of daily commute traffic.
We crossed the main street (Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou ) again, and Victor took us through the Plaka, the oldest part of Athens. We saw some ruins that were about ten feet below street level. This was the original street level. There are still many ancient ruins all over Athens that are undiscovered.
There was a small square with a monument. The Lysicrates square and monument. The monument was circular and classic. There had been a Capuchin monastery here. Lord Byron had stayed there. “He is a hero to the Greek people.” The monastery had become “a center for resistance” during the War for Independence. The Turks destroyed the monastery, but, “They didn’t destroy the monument.”
We came out of the Plaka and started walking up a modern road, the Dionysiou Areopagitou. We kept drawing closer to the Acropolis. It doesn’t exactly sneak up on you. There was an entrance to the Acropolis with a very long line. We would keep walking and go to an entrance on the other side. Victor pointed out the very modern looking Acropolis Museum. We walked around the base of the hill. Victor said we were walking where Plato and Aristotle had walked and taught.
He wanted us to se the Areopagus. We came to a bluff that was covered in rocky stone. “St. Paul preached to large crowds here.” There was a stairway to the top. On the top the wind was fierce. I took a short video and had a hard time standing. At one point another member of the tour group had to grab me so I could catch my balance! There was an awesome view of Athens from here.
The walking tour ended at the queue to go into the Acropolis. This was a bit odd. I thought we would get a Skip the Line ticket with the tour. I knew there would be an extra charge, but that would have been OK with me. There was a wait to buy tickets. I always get a little hyper before seeing iconic World Heritage sites. At least the line was shorter on this side.
It’s always a little surreal to go to the “Big” sites. The Eiffel Tower. St. Peter’s. The Alhambra. The Alcazar. I couldn’t believe the Grand Canyon when I first saw it. It’s hard to believe it’s there. Or that I’m there. This was it. This was a big one.
The area that led up to the Acropolis had ruins and some statues. I was surprised to see a modern stage inside the ancient Herodes Theatre. “Sting just played here!” There was a sound board set up about half way up the stone seats. The acoustics were unbelievable. An open microphone picked up the sounds the stagehands made when they walked around the stage.
Stone steps led us up to the top of the hill, and we entered under large stone portals. The steps were packed with people going up and down. You had to be careful to navigate the ancient stone steps. When I got to the top the crowd thinned out as people spread out to wander around.
At the top it was very windy. Swirls of dust blew around. Much of The Parthenon was covered in scaffolding. Renovation continues. I wandered around and saw the remains of the temples and buildings. Many buildings are familiar. The caryatids on the Erechtheion. It was hard to believe I was up here. Another unreal, amazing experience. I kept wandering around. Didn’t want to leave.
There was a great view of the Theatre of Dionysus below. It’s the theater “where it all began.” Where theater started. I get a closer look on my way out.
The Acropolis is still an active archaeological site. There is a small gauge railroad system up there to lug dirt and antiquities around.
It was crowded, but I think I got a break because it was later in the season. I overheard someone say, “It’s usually worse.” Guards watched for people who got too enthusiastic and climbed on the ruins for photo opportunities. Once in a while you’d hear a whistle and an admonishment. I saw one guy retrieving his hat from a clearly marked restricted zone. He got his hat and a scolding from one of the guards. It has to be a weird job.
I started making my way down. There were still large artifacts and ruins all around. I heard music. It was coming from the Herodes Theatre. They were doing some kind of sound check. It was a Leonard Cohen song: “Dance Me to the End of Love.” The bittersweet song was perfect. An emotional, stirring moment. People stood at the top behind the fence and listened. I took a little video. They played some of “Hallelujah” before the sound crew went on to other tasks. It’s probably a good thing they didn’t play a Stones song. I think my head would have exploded.
The Acropolis Museum is modern and displays many original works that can’t be left to the elements anymore. Just amazing. There was a great short film on the history of the Acropolis and another one on the controversial “Elgin Marbles.” When it was renovated a buried village was discovered. Presented a bit of a problem. The village is covered by glass that you can walk over. You can see the ruins below.
Left the Acropolis and walked down small streets with stone steps that led down towards Monastiraki. There were old, small buildings that looked like private residences, but who knows in this age of B&Bs. At the lower levels the walls were completely covered in graffiti. Most of it was artfully done. It seemed to be a haven for radical art and anarchy. Graffiti was everywhere in Athens, and most of it was not so artistic. Athens did have some edge to it.
Found a restaurant with a view of the Lysicrates Monument and Square. There was something about it. It was early and there were only two other people in the place. I wanted lamb. Got lamb souvlaki. The waiters eyed me with a little suspicion. Have to admit I was looking a bit ragged by this point. Even for me. My hair was longer than it had been in years. My pants were covered in smeared sunscreen and dust. So were my shoes. But it was dust from the Acropolis!
The Cathedral of Athens was still open. It’s relatively new, but I was glad to get inside for a look. Next to it is the “Little Metropolis.” I had been drawn to the miniaturized cathedral last night when the big one was closed. There’s a nice plaza around it that is more laid back than the other nearby public squares.
No comments:
Post a Comment